Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.80 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 03/25/2005 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Dimand_dragon_ |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Leopard frogs |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Other simular sized northern frogs. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Males tend to be larger than females, but very slightly generally only an experienced keeper can tell. |
Mostly Active During: | Both |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Half and Half is recommended, drift wood, gravel, bed-a-beast expandable brick is good, reptile mulch. Do not use wood chips some of them contain harmful oils and chemicals, but bark is OK and it will help with the humidity. Mold tends to grow on newspaper and paper towels so it should be changed daily or every other day. The water has to be kept clean otherwise your frog can get sick. This can be accomplished by either changing or partially changing the water daily, or use a submersible water filter. I recommend doing a partial water change every other day with a water filter. The water should be deep enough for the frog to submerse themselves completely and preferably swim around in and make a complete circle, that can be hard to accomplish with limited space. |
Lighting and UVB: | I have heard that UV bulbs are not needed but I use them to re-create natural sunlight. I’m also betting that they need it to synthesize vitamins like D3. They also make a good heat source. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Under the tank pads are sufficient, along with an incandescent light bulb (preferably a UV light bulb). The temperature should be about 70-80 degrees F. in the day and can fall to 60-70 degrees at night. Mine generally stay at a high 70’s all day long. Also if using an indoor pond (like me) then a water heater may be needed. I never see my frogs bask in the basking spots that are in the low 80’s, so these may be eliminated if space requires you to eliminate it although it is preferred. Generally for humidity the water will evaporate giving the humidity needed and they also submerse themselves in water, which also helps is for some reason you can’t get the humidity in the 70%-80% range. |
Heating and Equipment: | An under the tank heating pads work well, along with incandescent light bulbs (UV Preferred). The wattage depends on the size of the enclosure. A 20 gallon only needs a 50 watt, I prefer a red light as it makes good night time observing, also ceramic heat emitters can be used at night. If you have a large volume of water a water a water heater may be needed. |
Caging Provided: | 20 gallon tank is good for one 40 is good for 3-4 (one male and two-three females. If you want to use a harem, (which I do not recommend, because females can lay at an extreme 5000 eggs) you can use an indoor pond. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Crickets, Grasshoppers, Silkworms, Wax worms, Meal worms, King Meal worms, Butter worms, Cock Roaches, Earth Worms and Night Crawlers can be fed to your frog(s). The size of the insects should be appropriate to the size of your frog, the size of the insect should be about the same as the distance between the frogs eyes. A staple diet of crickets that are dusted and gut loaded should be appropriate and should be at least 50% of your frogs diet. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Crickets should be gut loaded with either a commercial diet or using a tropical fish food diet with an orange or carrot or any orange melon for moisture. |
Maintenance: | Every other month your tank should be scrubbed down, just use pure water and a sponge. I find that a tooth brush works well for corners. Do this just to keep algae and other pollutants down. |
Some Words on this Species: | This is an easier frog to take care of than others, if possible find a captive breed frog, even though wild ones are so readily available. These frogs may have parasites and/or diseases. |
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