Females get larger then males and males have small clocal spurs. Get your snake probed by a pro to be sure.
Mostly Active During:
Night
Substrate and Water Needs:
The easiest and safest substrate is newspaper. It is very easy to clean up after the snake defecates and it has a very low chance of being eaten. Wet towels can be put on top of the substrate so the blood can still burrow. A large water dish, big enough for the whole snake to fit in is important.
Lighting and UVB:
No lighting or UVB is needed, these snakes like darkness.
Temperatures and Humidity:
85-95 on the warm side with room temperature on the cooler side. For humidity you can either give the snake a seperate humid hiding spot by using a plastic container with moist moss inside, or you can spray down the whole cage every few days.
Heating and Equipment:
An under tank heater (UTH) is the best form of heating equipment.
Caging Provided:
A rubbermaid container is good for all sizes of bloods, younger ones like small, cramped cages while older snakes like more room to move around. Make sure to drill enough holes in the side for proper ventilation, but not too many or you will have trouble keeping up humidity.
Diet:
Carnivorous
Description of Diet:
These snakes are very good feeders and will take almost anything you will give them. Feed them proper sized (a little wider then their girth) mice, rats, chickens, guina pigs and rabbits once a week. Of course feed them frozen/thawed or pre-killed animals, they could get a serious injury and die from a fighting live feeder.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
No supplements are needed.
Maintenance:
If you are using newspaper, just replace it everytime the snake defecates or some blood comes off of it’s food. Water should be changed several times a week.
Some Words on this Species:
This is a great species with a much undeserved bad reputation. My CB blood and short-tailed pythons are very calm, tame and easy-going snakes. And they have a VERY good appetite!
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