Care Sheet for Ball PythonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.44 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 05/15/2005 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Ball Pythons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | ReptoDude |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Ball Python |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Your vet must determine the gender of most snakes or someone experienced with probing them. External features are usually not a reliable indicator of gender. Probing Ball Pythons is dangerous in the wrong hands. Have someone experienced do this.
But I have heard myths on other ways to sex your python without probing.
First- On top of the python’s neck right behind the head, if there’s a design that looks like a long "Twinkie" shape design, then it’s female
Second- If the python has a more narrow and longer tail, its female. If its tail is more of a stub and fat, then it’s male.
Third- Females have longer anal spurs than males.
Fourth- (This one is kind of graphic) When the snake is defecating, look into its vent and see if there is a block like structure sticking out while defecating. If there is, it’s a female.
Even though I have mentioned other ways that can be used, they are not %100 correct. The best thing to do is have a VET or someone EXPERIENCED probe your python to find the correct sex.
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Mostly Active During: | Both |
Substrate and Water Needs: | I use Aspen bedding for my ball python. Its clean, safe, and she loves to dig in it. You could also use newspaper. Newspaper is real cheap and easy to get. A lot of people use astro-turf but I try to stay away from it. Why may you ask? Because astro-turf is going to build up bacteria over time which can be a health problem for you python.
Stay away from- Pine, Cedar, Sand, and anything else that produces poisonous toxins.
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Lighting and UVB: | No special UVB lighting required.
White light may be used to either add heat to your enclosure, or to add an effect to the lighting of the enclosure.
Blue and Red lights are great for the nighttime and/or the daytime. These are the most commonly used.
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Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperature for a Ball Python should be kept around 85F daytime and 80F at night. A basking site in the range of 90-95F is also needed. If temperatures are allowed to stay too cool, refusal of food, regurgitation of food, digestive problems and respiratory infections will be right behind!
Humidity should be at a constant %60 for a nice environment. During shedding, its best to raise it up to %80 humid for a nice clean shed. Humidity can be produced by a mister or by simply placing your pythons water bowl underneath a light, heat lamp, or over a under tank heater.
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Heating and Equipment: | A few things can accomplish heating.
First- White lights. There isn’t any specific wattage to use for your cage. You will have to run tests to figure out the right wattage of the light bulb to use to heat your cage. Some people keep these on all the time, but it can ’annoy’ your snake during the night.
Second- Blue and Red lights. These are the best because you will be able to keep them on 24/7 unlike white lights, which should be turned off at night.
Under the Tank Heater (UTH)- These are great to use. Just place underneath your tank and set the desired temperature. I would recommend this.
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Caging Provided: | Caging- A 10 gallon would be fine for a baby, but eventually you need to upgrade. A 30 gallon or 38x12x18 is the minimum size for an adult. Just remember, bigger is better. If you go big, make sure you have enough plants and hiding spots. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Its best to start your python on rats as soon as possible. Transitions from mice to rat is sometimes hard to do. The thickest part of the python is what determines how big the rat should be. A little bit snug isn’t a problem, but you don’t want to be feeding a baby snake a huge rat.
Babies- Feed 1 prey item every 5-7 days.
Adults- Feed 1 prey item every 7 days or every 12-14 days. This depends on the handlers choice.
Speed Feeding is a NO NO. If you speed feed your python (as in you feed 2 big prey items every 4-5 days), in the future you WILL have health problems and it may cause death. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | None required. |
Maintenance: | Very easy to maintain and very inexpensive. |
Some Words on this Species: | If you are looking for a snake that is inexpensive, easy to care for, docile, and doesn’t grow to become gigantic, then get a Ball Python.
Just one thought to keep in mind- Some ball pythons can be problem feeders. Sometimes they will go off feed for a couple of weeks, to a month, to even a few months. Not all ball pythons are like this. If this does happen to yours, don’t worry, just keep on trying to feed your snake like you usually do.
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