Care Sheet for Boa ConstrictorsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.69 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/21/2005 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Boa Constrictors |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | DOSU! |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Red Tailed Boa |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Care Sheet Information: | General Information- A Red Tailed Boa (Boa Constrictor Imperator) is the pet trades "nice name" for a common Boa Constrictor as it sounds much less threatening. However they are generally very docile and good snakes. Under proper care and conditions they can live well into their Thirtys and possibly to Fourty.
Size- Generally Males range from 6 to 8 feet and 30 to 40 pounds. Females generally are larger at around 6 to 10 feet and 35 to 50 pounds. These are large and thick bodied snakes.
Temperament- Captive bred’s are known for being very calm and docile. They react well to frequent handling and while some Hatchlings can be a tad nippy this is something that is quickly grown out of with frequent handling. Wild caught specimens can be rather bad tempered and snippy but may calm down with frequent handling.
Housing- For hatchlings/neonates a 10 to 20 gallon aquarium is more than enough. Clear plastic shoe boxes with air holes drilled in them work fine as well. For young adults a good rule of thumb is the enclosure should be AT LEAST half the length of the snakes body. An adult ranging from 6 to 10 feet can comfortably housed in an enclsure 8’ x 4’ x 2’.
Temperature- An average Temperature of 85-90F. A basking spot of 90-95F should be provided. At night a drop of 5 to 10 degrees is acceptable. These snakes do not require excessive humidity.
Substrate- Newspaper and papertowels should be used for neonates/hatchlings. This allows for both easy cleaning and the monitering of fecal matter and for the presence of parasites. Once a healthy snake is established aspen shavings or cypress mulch work fine and are both inexpensive.
Cage Furniture- Two hide boxes should be provided, one on the cool end of the tank and one on the warm end. A water bowl large enough for the snake to soak in should be available at all times, this is especially important at shed time. Being only mildly arboreal only low branches are needed, if any for climbing.
Heating Equipment- First and foremost, STAY AWAY FROM HOT ROCKS!!!!!!! These can brun your snake badly. I use an under tank heater and a heatlamp on a 12-hour on and 12-hour off cycle.
Feeding- Hatchlings/neonates should be fed an appropriately sized mouse/rat once every 5 to 7 days. Young adults need to be fed large rats every 5 to 7 days. A full grown adult depending on size can be fed one small to medium rabbit every 7 to 10 days. A general rule of thumb is that the prey item should be NO LARGER than the largest part of the snakes mid-section. I reccomend feeding pre-killed prey items as it is much safer for the snake as live prey does fight back! DO NOT handle your snake for a minimum of 36-hours after being fed or there is a risk of it regurgitating it’s meal.
Handling a new snake- With a new snake give it two to three days to get used to it’s new home. Then you can try feeding it a small meal. In another two or so days you can begin handling it gently for small amounts of time.
Enjoy your new friend! When properly cared for it will be a lifelong companion who will bring you joy for many years to come!
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