Care Sheet for Water DragonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.53 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/24/2005 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Water Dragons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Lzrd_girl |
Years Experience: | 1 to 2 Years |
Species: | Chinese Water Dragons |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | This caresheet will cover Australian Water Dragons, Eastern Water Dragons, and Striped Water Dragons, I believe Basilisk too. You will learn how to properly care for a hatchling, Juvie, And Adult water dragon. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | The Chinese Water Dragon, also known as the Green Water Dragon, Or Asian Water Dragon is an arboreal reptile. Growing up to 3 feet being the most, they are green with 2/3 of the body being tail. The Males are usually the biggest, Carrying Large spikes on the crest all the way to the tip of the tail. Also males have outstanding colors on the throat while Females have a orangish-pink color. Females are a bit smaller, although some may have large spikes and a big crest too.
To tell A female from a male, You water Dragon will have to be at least 18 inches+. At the vent of a male you will see large pores right above it. They should be in a "V" form. Females have barely noticeable pores. Also right at the Base of the tail, the Males have two bulges which is the hemipenis. Females usually have one bump or none at all.
To tell a female from a Male on the looks are a bit more difficult, but can be VERY easy. Males are much Larger and have bigger, Wider heads , while females have thinner narrower heads. Growing into Maturity Males develop a large ridge on top of the back. They do become A lot thicker and "taller" than females. Females tend to be quite smaller, and have a more pear shape.
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Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | For hatchlings:
Substrate for hatchlings can vary. For my neonatals i use plain old moist towel paper. This way it is easier to change, less expensive, and it’s easy for the CWDs to eat on. Other people use Reptile Carpet, which should be the soft kind and not the kind with the fake grass as they babies can eat it and get sores. Dirt is also a favorite of many people, but should only be used on older Water Dragons. Many neonatals are clumsy and get mouthfuls of dirt when they try to hunt which can lead to impaction. Woodchips are ok, but once again they can swallow them or choke on them. Also Linoleum is acceptable, as it is easy to clean. A shallow water Bowl should be placed in The tank. Make sure it isn’t too deep as they can drown, try to put leaves or pebbles at the bottom that make the bowl shallower. Also clean pebbles thoroughly
if you find them outside and make sure they are big enough so they cant eat them.
For Juveniles:
Juveniles can use about anything, Soil is ok, but there are always chances of them swallowing it and having problems. Reptile Carpet is one of the nicest, clean, substrates you can use, it is easy to afford and can come in many colors.The water Bowl should be fairly big and at some point in the water bowl it should be neck deep.
For Adults:
Just because they do poop a lot and cause quite a mess, Reptile Carpet, Linoleum, and Tile should be used. It is very easy to clean and Reusable. If you are breeding, you should always have a box of dirt for the female to lay in. You can easily use A cat litter box and fill with vermiculite, or bed-a-beast. Water Dragons need A large water bowl to soak and swim in. A small Litter box will do, but keep it clean as they will defecate in it.
*never use crushed walnuts as they are NOT digestible and can impact your reptile.* |
Lighting and UVB: | For water Dragons, the lighting and Uvb shouldnt be difficult. They should have at the least a Basking Bulb. The bigger the cage, the more watts you should have. Uvb is required and should be given 8-12 hours a day. If it is cold in your area you should have a night light too which can be a 75 watt infrared for hatchlings to juvies and 100 watt for bigger dragons for bigger cages. Ceramic heaters are also acceptable and should be used throughout the night. Never put your UVB light outside of the cage where it shines through Plexi glass for the Uvb wont be carried through the glass and will be plain old light. Never put your Cage near a window as the sun will shine through the cage and cause a "green house affect" to you reptile and make it a microwave x.x |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures throughout the cage shouldnt pass 110 at anytime. Day temps should range from 80-85 while having a cool side of 75-80 and night temps should be an all around 70-80. The basking temps should be around 100-120 at the most.
HUMIDITY:
For hatchlings the first month it should be at a constant 80% since they have just come out of an egg at 100% humidity. Juveniles and adults can have humidity ranging from 50-90% but shouldn’t go below 50%. IT is ok if the humidity goes below 60% as long as they have a fairly big Water Bowl which they can soak in. |
Heating and Equipment: | For water Dragons, UTH are not required since they are arboreal they wont be spending too much time at the bottom of the cage. They should have many Vines, and branches to hang on. For hatchlings BIG fake plants are always good because they will feel secure. Adults and Juvies should have Thick branches that can support their weight. |
Caging Provided: | For hatchlings the biggest they should ever have is a 20 gallon long/tall if you have one. You dont want to build him/her a HUGE cage when it is only a mere 6-10 inches. They should have it small so they can find their food.
Juveniles ranging from 12 inches+ should have a 40 gallon-100 gallon.
An Adult should have 100 gallons at the least. For my two adults i have a custom built 2x4x4 (wxlxh)
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Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Water Dragons are said to be omnivorous, but few eat vegetables and fruit. IF they do they usually can eat, strawberries, Carrots, Bananas, Lettuce, and many others.
Hatchlings ranging from the youngest being 2 days old should be fed 1/4 crickets. They wont eat fruit or veggies but can be provided. They should eat about 10-15 a day or every other day. Juveniles should be fed daily. they can eat Crickets, Mealworms, Super mealworms, Silkworms, Quarantined snails *to make sure of no poison*. They should be fed at least 10-20 large crickets, as well as giving them 1-4 Supers, Mealworms, etc.
Adults can eat Mice ranging from pinkies-Adults. They should be fed Mice every 2-3 days if taken or a lot of supers, snails, mealies, and crickets. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Gravid females should have their food dusted 3 times+ a week, While Males once a week. You should use calcium that is D3 Free. Vitamins can also be dusted with the food. |
Maintenance: | Cleaning the water Bowl once a day, and cleaning the cage every 1-2 months is a good start. When they get 16 inches + start feeding them with tongs for they can give nasty bites.
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Some Words on this Species: | Ive had CWDs for over 2 years and have successfully bred Them. I have 1.1.4 Wds. They are very easy to care for if you can change their water daily, At least clean the cage every 1-2 months. They do get big, if you arent prepared for a 3 foot lizard get a leopard gecko. i breed those too and are easy to care for.
*they can be a bit jumpy* once you get them settled down they are like peaches and cream. Hold them often, tell them you love them and they will be a rewarding pet.
Leo, Katie, and the 4 babies
lzrd_grl |
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