Care Sheet for Bearded DragonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.38 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 07/18/2005 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Bearded Dragons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Lizzylover143 |
Years Experience: | Under 1 Year |
Species: | Bearded dragon "pogona vitticeps |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | only bearded dragons |
Sexing and Characteristics: | It is rather difficult to sex a bearded dragon when they are babies. the males are slightly larger than females, and the males have two bumps just above the vent area, while the female only has one. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Tile, paper towles, newspaper, repticarpet, and shelf liner are the best choices for a bearded dragons. loose substrates such as sand, bark, etc are a big no no because if they ate it by accident they can become impacted wich means their intestines become clogged so they can’t get any nutrients from their food and they cannot defacate so they eventually die.
for water, always provide a shallow water dish in there cage. if your worried that your bearded dragon is not getting enough water, use a spray bottle to spray his/her face so that dropplets of water reach his/her mouth, do this until they stop drinking. |
Lighting and UVB: | You need a uvb light or your bearded dragon could get MBD with causes their bones to grow improperly and to become almost spongy causing death. as a uvb light i would reconmend the reptisun 10.0. for heat and light you can use a regular household bulb. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | You should have a basking spot of 100-105 degrees and a cool side of 90-95 degrees. bearded dragonsare a desert species so no humidity is necasary.
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Heating and Equipment: | Use a dome light hood for the basking area, wich you can find at most pet stores. a rock at least 8 inches from the lamp is perfect because the rock warms up so when the bearded dragon lays on it heat is on their stomach wich is important for digestion. the reptisun 10.0 is a really good uvb light, you could also use a 5.0 or higher. you will also need a hide box and a log to put in the tank. |
Caging Provided: | For hatchlings a 20 gallon will work so that s/he does not have to go far for food. as they grow larger you will need to either build or buy a 40 gallon breeder or larger. i would reconmend building it rather than buy it because it is alot less expensive. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | A hatchling needs to eat as many crickets they can eat in 15-20 minutes 3 times a day. that can add up to 20+ crickets each feeding. offer salad daily, check out www.beautifuldragons.com for good and bad veggies. an adult needs salads daily, and about 5 crickets every other day.
DO NOT feed pinkies, to fatty and they are hard to digest.
DO NOT feed fire flies they will kill your dragon in about 15 minutes.
DO NOT feed meal worms they are hard to digest and can cause impaction.
DO NOT feed wild insects, they can be pacted with parisites and can be contaminated with pesticides.
DO NOT feed to large a prey item, a good rule of thumb is the prey should not be larger than the space between there eyes.
another stable prey item you can feed are silworms, they are more expensive but have the nutrition value of 3 crickets. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Dust crickets with vitamins once a week, and dust crickets with calcium every other day. |
Maintenance: | Bearded dragons are generally low maintance if you provide the basic care.
make sure you remove any fecal matter as soon as it’s noticed.
give baths at least weekly,
and love em’ like crazy!! |
Some Words on this Species: | Bearded dragons are one of my favorite reptiles because they are great with handling and funny to have around, i think that if your going to get anything then go for a beardie!!!!!! |
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