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Green Anaconda Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Anacondas

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.72    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 03/27/2007

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Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years


Green Anaconda

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Not Available

Sexing and Characteristics:

The Green Anaconda is a very beautiful and unique snake with lots of character. They have an unusual way of biting, they can lunge at you forward like most snakes, but they can also strike from the side. These snakes can become very large also.
Neonates: Usually a little over 2� long.
Females: Average 16’ +
Males: Average 10’ +
Aside from their lengths, Anacondas tend to weigh more and be more girthy than most snakes. They are nocturnal also, so they would assume to be more active at night, although mine tend to roam around more during the day. The Green Anaconda can also live up to 30 years in captivity! There are a lot of Anacondas to go around here, but typically a lot of them are Wild Caught, which isn�t a bad thing, but the things you will have to watch out for with the Wild Caught specimen is:
- Water Blisters
- Sever Upper Respiratory Infections
- Worms
- Other Internal and External Parasites
- Scaring
- Reluctant feeders
There is more to the list also. I would recommend a Captive Bred neonate, as they tend to be a lot better temperament wise and feeding wise.

Mostly Active During:


Substrate and Water Needs:

For substrates, I recommend:
- Newspaper (cheap and easy to clean up)
- Paper Towels (I recommend this over newspaper, it is more absorbent and has no ink on it)
Typically I try and stay away from things like Reptibark and stuff on the lines of that. It can get bugs if not changed regularly, becomes more expensive, a mess to clean up, etc.
Well, Another common name for the Green Anaconda (besides Eunectes Murinus) is "Water Boa". Now a lot of people recommend having a bowl large enough for the Anaconda to soak in, which is easily taken care of up until the snake is about 11’ in length. Always make sure there is clean, fresh water for the snake, as it will tend to defecate and urinate in the water most of the time. Keeping it clean and making sure they aren’t in it 24/7 will prevent water blisters.
Now if you choose not to give the snake a bowl large enough to soak in, this is another choice that will work just fine. Just keep the humidity range around 55-60%

Lighting and UVB:

No special lighting is necessary for this snake, but UVs are good for almost any snake. If choosing to use lighting, keep it on 12 hour cycles, 12 hours of day, 12 hours of night.

Temperatures and Humidity:

A basking spot of 88-90 F and background temperature of 78-80 F (I recommend a background heat between 80-85 F though). Make sure to get thermometers for your cages, Do not guess on this. I recommend using Digital as they are more precise, they make Thermo/Hyrdo thermometers also to regulate both humidity and temperature. Make sure to have one on the hot side and the cool side of the enclosure.
The snake will need to have a constant humidity range of 50-60%. Now this can be harder than it seems when using certain types of caging. In my opinion the best way to maintain good humidity is to create a humidity hut. Take a Rubbermaid container (one that your snake can easily fit into), cut a hole in the top of side for entrance/exit of the snake, fill it with SPHAGNUM MOSS (Do NOT use things like reptibark, it will get bugs in a few days.) and then mist daily with warm water.

Heating and Equipment:

You can use undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, or basking bulbs (will have to switch day time and night time bulbs to cause less stress on the snake). I use undercage heat with florescent bulbs in my smaller 4’ and 6’ cages, and I use Basking bulbs in my large 8’ cages. Well, they both work out fine, I haven’t had a problem with either, just make sure you undercage and overhead heat is maintaining the proper heat for the snake.

Caging Provided:

This will most likely be the most costly of your snake, the caging. These snakes do not stay small, and there is NO keeping them small, so DO NOT feed them less or anything like that to try and keep them at a small size. For neonate Anacondas, I would recommend putting them in a smaller enclosure, maybe a 20 gal. for a little while to prevent stress.
I honestly don�t really recommend cages with screen lids at all, for the fact that it�s hard to maintain humidity and the snake can get nose rub. There are other options, such as Melamine racks and Plastics caging.
An adult anaconda is going to need room, so you are going to have to understand this when getting the cage for the adult snake. Typically my rule for it is, when the snake is double the length of the cage, get a new cage (For example, you would change the cage when the snake is 8� and in a 4� cage). I think the best size of cage for the snake would be 8� long x 30" wide x 18" high. That way if it�s a male, it has a lot of room to roam around, and if it�s a female, well you have a lot of time to prepare for a larger cage if needed.:)

Here are a few links to Plastic Caging options:
Also there care Vision cages and Neodesha cages. Please do not buy this species of snake if you are not prepared to house it properly.
Keep in mind, the more stuff you put in a cage, the more stuff you are going to have to take out, clean and sterilize. So be prepared for that, and don�t over do it.:)



Description of Diet:

Feed the snake at least once every 10 days. I keep my snakes on a 6 day routine. They typically will take Rodents (Mice, Rats). I recommend rats, they have more nutrients than mice, plus if you start them early on rats, then you wont have to worry about converting later. With reluctant feeders, some might take quail, there are also tricks such as leaving them in a dark container with the food (if live, only for an hour at tops), or dipping the food items head in some warm chicken broth. I do not recommend feeding live, for the main fact that it is dangerous to the snake. So if you can switch your snake to eat Frozen Thawed food, you have saved yourself the trouble of getting your food all the time, now you can keep quantities in your freezer! And you are not giving your snake scars. Only feed the snake prey no larger than it’s largest point. Once the snake is big enough to move off rats, they can typically take (f/t) rabbits also.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Not Available


Be cautious when handling, never handle any snake 10’ + alone. Just because you think it’s the tamest thing in the world, if you smell like something it likes, it’s going to want a taste.
Also, these snakes can be a handful. Be prepared for frequent water changes, defecation and urination daily (this isn’t all the time, but there are times when this will occur for about a week, and it’s A LOT when the snake is big, trust me), to monitor the snakes heat and humidity, and be prepared house it, and for any accidents the snake might have on you.:)

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The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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