Care Sheet for FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.83 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 08/16/2005 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Andy* |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Golden Mantella |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Ruby Mantella
Black eared Mantella
Brown Mantella
Malagasy Mantella
Beautiful Mantella
Mantella Loppei |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Males are more slender and slightly smaller than females
Females are more squat and larger than males
Males croak, females don’t. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Substrate should be water retaining as this will aid in humidity. These include, sheet moss, sphagnum moss, bed a beast, compost and the less attractive paper towels. I use sheet moss as crickets cannot dig or hide as easily in it and it looks natural. All substrates should be sprayed twice a day to remain slightly moist.
Water should be put in a very shallow dish as these frogs cannot swim very well. The entire enclosure should be sprayed twice a day also. |
Lighting and UVB: | These frogs do not require much UVB as they live on the forest floor, so much of the suns rays are filtered out by the trees. However they are diurnal so will feel more comfortable with slight amount. A 2.0 UVB fluorescent tube along the whole length of the vivarium is beneficial to the frogs and will also help the plants grow. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | A day time temperature range from 19C to 24C is ideal. Slightly below this is tolerated, but above this range can be damaging. A drop to 17C at night is favored.
High humidity is required at all times. 80% to 100% humidity is achieved by mist spraying twice a day.
Ventilation is equally important as these frogs cannot stand stagnant air conditions. Poor ventilation will encourage molds to grow, which are harmful to your frogs. |
Heating and Equipment: | No heating equipment is necessary as these frogs enjoy room temperatures. A small heat pad may be placed on the back of the vivarium in winter.
UV fluorescent tube the same length as your vivarium and a switch/controller for it. |
Caging Provided: | I have a 10 gallon tall plastic vivarium with planted live plants, cork bark backing with climbing plants growing up it. I also have a small shallow water dish and a coconut hide. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | They need very tiny crickets that are the same size or smaller than the width of their head.
Feed as much as they can eat in 15 minutes, every two days. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Gut load crickets. Dust them with calcium powder every meal for juveniles, every fourth meal for adults.
OR
Dust crickets in vitamin powder once a week. Same as above for calcium. |
Maintenance: | They are very easy to maintain. Spray the enclosure twice a day (once in the morning then again in the evening). Clean out any poos and dead crickets you find. Replace the water every few days or when it is fouled.
Clean out fully every month. Wash contents with water, don’t use any chemicals. |
Some Words on this Species: | They are best kept in groups and more active when done so. They are very brightly colored and fun to watch as they are active in the day.
Creating a natural looking setup can be very entertaining and you will be proud of your results. I think its more fun to watch an animal in a natural looking setup, or even better - in the wild!
But it is nice to have a bit of nature in your own home. |
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