Care Sheet for Tree FrogsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.85 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 11/07/2005 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Tree Frogs |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | ILuvMyFrogs! |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | White’s Tree Frog (Litoria Caerulea) aka ’Dumpy Tree frog’ & ’Australian Green Tree Frog’ |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | White’s Tree Frogs originate from Australia’s tropical areas, named ’Whites’ after the man who first discribed them.
White’s are fairly large, heavily built frogs, adult Females can reach around 4 inches & the males slightly smaller.
They change colours, from being a bright blue/green colur to a range of browns, sometimes with white spots on their backs.
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Sexing and Characteristics: | It is near impossible to sex a White’s Tree frog under the age of one year.
Generally though, females tend to be larger than males. So comparing two which you know to be the same age, & seeing a difference in size may indicate the sex.
Also, Males tend to have looser darker skin under their throats & can call quite frequently
(Warning- this can be VERY loud, & if you will be sleeping in the same room, it is worth remembering this!).
The Females can call (usually in response to the males) but it is not as loud, or for as long & the throat does not swell.
Males are said to develop nuptual pads during the breeding season, but if they have done this, they are more than likely to be of the age to call (a more definite way to sex them). |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | SUBSTRATES:
I personally use large size Orchid Bark Chippings, covered with a layer of live Spaghnum Moss, This helps to maintain the correct humidity in the tank. The bark retains moisture to keep the moss alive, I also have a UVA light as I found my moss went far greener & looked healthier with it.
Other recommended substrates are:
Peat (Which I found messy-lots of muddy footprints all over the glass!)
Moist Paper towels ( I prefer the natural look, so have never tried these)
Reptile Grass/Carpet (looks like AstroTurf)
NEVER use anything small which the frogs could accidentally swallow, i.e small pebbles, small bark chippings, sand etc- these can cause impaction which can lead to death.
An essential part to a tree frogs home is things to climb on! Make sure you have lots of plants, & Vines, branches or Cork Bark for them to climb on, & hide amongst.
Aside from the moss I use artificial plants. Living plants can be used, but White’s are not lightweights & will easily break the real thing! When using Vines, Branches or Bark, it is a good idea to thoroughly clean them before putting them in your tank.
WATER:
It is essential to keep the water clean at all times, many problems can occur if frogs are left with dirty water.
Tree frogs, like most other frogs like to sit in their water bowl to hydrate themselves, & prefer a large enough bowl to be able to spread out.
The water itself is important. Tap water is NOT good for frogs. The chemicals added which make it suitable for human consumption can be harmful to them.
Instead use either (clean) rain water, or tap water which has been stood outside for a couple of days to allow chemicals to evaporate etc.
I personally use Exo-Terra’s Aquatize for reptiles & Amphibians, this is added to tap water to make it safe. It removes Chlorine & trace metals etc.
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Lighting and UVB: | It is said that because White’s are nocturnal, they do not require full spectrum lighting.
I however use an Exo-Terra Sun Glo bulb, it provides UVA rays- which are said to stimulate natural feeding & breeding behaviours in reptiles & amphibians. UVA lighting I found, also helps plants in the tank to stay healthy.
I also have the Night Glo version too, not really for the frogs- but for me! These lights emit a gentle blue light- simulating moonlight, so they don’t mind it being on- but it provides enough light to view them getting up to mischief at night! |
Temperatures and Humidity: | TEMPERATURE: (Invest in a good Thermometer)
Daytime temperatures should ideally range between 25- 30°C on the warmer & cooler sides of the tank. Dropping to around 23°C at night.
The best way to achieve this drop is by using a heat mat & basking light (both at the same end) & switching off the basking lamp at night.
It is best to have the heat sources at one side of the tank, allowing the frogs a cooler side should they need it.
These frogs originate from Australia, & can tolerate varying temperatures (within reason) in captivity.
HUMIDITY: (Invest in a good Hygrometer/Humidity Gauge)
White’s humidity should be maintained at about 50-60%. They are found in the wild mainly in rainforest areas, which have a fairly high humidity. This can be achieved by misting daily.
In my tank I have a waterfall, with the heat in the tank making the water evaporate, this keeps my humidity right without spraying daily.
Good Humidity levels also aid the frogs in their shedding cycle. It is not done very regularly, & many, when witnessing it for the first time, think that the frog is ill.
I will describe the actions of a frog in shed, so as it can be recognised as easily as possible without the need to worry!
*They will sit & look like they’re convulsing, opening their mouths wide, straining their stomachs.
*They will sit rubbing their mouth & sides with their front legs.
*They will end up with a string of dead skin- (which looks like a ’slimy’ mucus membrane) trailing from their mouths, to their hind legs.
ALL of this is perfectly normal, if however you don’t like seeing them struggling you can pull it away from the sides of them, as it is loose. I do it regularly, & yes, it feels revolting but believe me- your frog will appreciate not having to struggle! They will be absolutely fine if left to do it naturally though. |
Heating and Equipment: | I have a heat mat (controlled by a thermostat) & also a Sun Glo bulb, which help maintain the right temperatures.
As for Equipment, as well as the items mentioned throughout this care sheet, I would recommend having:
*A pair of forceps (long tweezers) Useful for feeding by hand to monitor how much they are eating.
*A spray bottle for misting. |
Caging Provided: | I house my 3 White’s (was 4, one sadly died of old age) in a tank I made myself. It’s a 2ft square glass tank, with a mirrored back. It is a ’Half & Half tank’ (half water half land- not very deep water) This is not the usual for tree frogs but mine love it! I have a waterfall in the water half, with a pump powering it.
There are pictures of it if you take a look under my profile (it saves describing it!)
I live in the UK & the conversions here make my tank 50 gallons. Whereas in US conversion it makes 60 gallons.
This is something to be aware of when researching tank sizes for your frogs, look for the sites which give actual dimensions eg 24"x24"x24"- Instead of ’X amount of gallons’
I personally would say get a minimum of a 20 gallon tall(US) for an adult White’s. Although I would say get the biggest you can afford, that way you know your frog/s will be happy.
And lastly...
Ensure that the lid is secure, these frogs can, & will escape if they find any gaps! There’s a good reason why many get named "Houdini"!!! |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Feed adult White’s every two to three days, on a diet of mainly Crickets.
Younger frogs should be fed daily, starting with pinhead crickets & wingless fruit flies.
As a rule, feed items the same length as the measurement between the frogs eyes.
Mealworms, Waxworms, Earthworms & caterpillars can also be fed in moderation to vary the diet.
I feed mine as many as they will eat in one sitting. White’s are prone to obesity, & caution must be taken to avoid this.
If your’s begins to look too fat DO NOT stop feeding it, just limit its intake & don’t feed fatty ’treats’ (caterpillars, worms etc). |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | It is advisable to dust the frogs food ONCE a week with a vitamin supplement. I use ’Nutrabol’ it has all kinds of vitamins & minerals in it. Supplements with Calcium &/or vitamin D3 in are good, both are great for their bones & helps to avoid MBD (metabolic Bone Disease). |
Maintenance: | The tank should be checked daily and spot cleaned (removing frogs waste) & also if the water has been fouled, replace it.
Depending on the tank & it’s size it should be cleaned out every two or three weeks.
My tank requires cleaning slightly less frequently, as the pump filters the water in my tank, & waste is absorbed by my moss. I do still spot clean it regularly though. |
Some Words on this Species: | SOME NOTES ON HANDLING WHITE’S:
White’s are pretty docile & will tolerate handling- however this should not be mistaken for ’liking’ to be held. Handling should be kept to the minimum.
As with ALL frogs, you must ALWAYS handle with WET hands.
Frogs have highly absorbant skin & the oils in our skin, can irritate theirs (& vice versa in some cases)- the water acts as a simple barrier. Soaps, perfumes, even food items leave traces on our skin, so ensure your hands are CLEAN to avoid any problems for your frogs.
OTHER INFO:
White’s are voracious eaters, if it fits in their mouth it is food! They are known to cannibalise other White’s of a smaller size, so keep this in mind when buying. Always house White’s of a similar size (taking into account females are slightly larger anyway) to avoid any ’accidents’.
It is for these reasons, it is NOT advisable to mix species.
Most frogs have different bodily secretions (Whites included), and many are intolerant of each other. That is why you never find two different species of frogs in close proximity in the wild.
Also, different kinds of frogs from different areas etc may carry bacteria (harmless to them) which is harmful to other species.
For example; Some reptiles can carry salmonella, it does not affect them- but if they come into contact with people- they can catch it, & it will more than likely make them ill.
-How can you be sure that one healthy frog will not carry something potentially dangerous to another species?
IT IS SIMPLY NOT WORTH THE RISK!
Owning these frogs is a BIG commitment, if kept in optimum conditions, they can live on average 15 years- but they have been known to live 20 years+!
If you want my opinion, check out my user name- I really do love my frogs!
White’s Tree frogs are amazing creatures to have as pets, thoroughly entertaining & if you care for them properly they are no trouble at all, I would highly recommend them as pets! (Providing you thoroughly research them first!) |
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