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Lizardzzz View Profile |
Thank you |
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| 08/29/06 05:27pm |
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KrazyKelli View Profile |
Message To: Lizardzzz In reference to Message Id: 962742 Help!
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| 08/29/06 05:31pm |
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Lizardzzz View Profile |
Message To: KrazyKelli In reference to Message Id: 962748 Help!
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| 08/29/06 05:40pm |
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KrazyKelli View Profile |
Message To: Lizardzzz In reference to Message Id: 962762 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:03pm |
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Lizardzzz View Profile |
Message To: KrazyKelli In reference to Message Id: 962808 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:10pm |
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Geckogirlemi View Profile |
Message To: Lizardzzz In reference to Message Id: 962819 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:14pm |
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LIZARD-MAN2 View Profile |
Message To: Lizardzzz In reference to Message Id: 962819 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:18pm |
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Lizardzzz View Profile |
Message To: LIZARD-MAN2 In reference to Message Id: 962825 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:22pm |
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Geckogirlemi View Profile |
Message To: Lizardzzz In reference to Message Id: 962833 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:29pm |
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KrazyKelli View Profile |
Message To: Lizardzzz In reference to Message Id: 962819 Help!
You’re going to have to buy/change a few things. First, I recommend you upgrade to a bigger tank - such as a 15 or 20 gallon (20 gallon is more efficiant). Small lizard, I know. But they have more room and places to hide when the tank is bigger. Get the tank after any parasite problem is taken care of. Next, buy yourself a digital thermometer and hydrometer. This is to properly measure tank temperatures and humidity. Mount them on the inside of the tank - close to the substrate. Why digital thermometer? Because those cheap sticker and dial kinds don’t work that well and often misread temps. The humidity should be around 70%, the temps should be between 75 and 85F during the day (87 to 90 hot spot with the lamp) and drop 5 degrees at night with no hot spot. I also recommend you get a 60 to 75 watt UV bulb. The 100 watt bulb being directed at a 10 gallon tank is probably heating it well beyond 95F when it’s on and that could easily hurt/kill your lizard in the future (you could use the 100 watter for a much bigger tank in the future). Speaking of Uvb, you ultimately rule for knowing what sort of bulb you need. I like that. I don’t know what sorta substrate corkbark is, but as long as it doesn’t have sharp edges, it should be ok for a grass lizard. They should also have the ability to burrow in it. Makes them happy. You can also try out bed a beast in the future if you’d like. Make sure you have a water dish at all times. You can also leave a small glass/ceramic dish (can be bought at any flower or department store) in there with mealworms and see if your lizard doesn’t take some. The more hiding places the better. You say you have some sticks now, but more is always better. If you have any money left over after the rest of this, you could invest in more. What I highly recommend is going to a local hobby store and buying 6 ft of fake pothos vine for 3 dollars. Much more cost efficiant than pet supply stores in that area. Have you been giving your lizard her vitamins? I forgot to ask you if you have or not, but make sure to supply your lizard with calcium(preferably without d3 as the uvb is doing that for you. JurassiCal is a good brand) and vitamin suppliments. Dust/coat the suppliments on the crickets/mealworms before adding them to the tank. You should also gutload your insects with vegis, vitamins, and other such things for a day or more before giving htem to the lizard. This will ensure that your lizard gets the healthy stuff. There are there vitamin cubes from Flukers that I use for my feeder bugs and they do wonders. Anyway, dust with teh calcium every other day and the vitamins once a week. Lastly, make sure the tank is away from any windows. Direct sunlight can literally fry the tank. Also have the tank in a secluded room. This is because too much activity outside of the tank will stress the lizard. As for what could be wrong with your lizard, it could be many things. Currently I’m guessing parasites - which is why taking it to the vet should be objective #1 if it’s never had a fecal test before. It’s the #1 culprit. However the problem could also be stress caused from where the tank is placed in the house, too much handling, the intense heat from the extreme wattage on the bulb, the tank being too small, or not enough places to hide. The lizard could be impacted from eating the bark (specially if it’s sharp), so monitor the lizard to see if it is able to crap. If there’s blood in the crap, take it to the vet ASAP. If the lizard can’t crap, give it either 1 to 3 drops of olive oil or 1 small drop of mineral oil and see if that doesn’t help. Should impaction (not being able to crap) be the problem, remove the cork bark. And even then, it could be something as small as the lizard getting ready to shed. Sometimes lizards wont eat for up to 5 days before shedding, shed, then eat a load. I hope this has been an informative post. |
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| 08/29/06 06:35pm |
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KrazyKelli View Profile |
Message To: KrazyKelli In reference to Message Id: 962845 Help!
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| 08/29/06 06:36pm |
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Lizardzzz View Profile |
Message To: KrazyKelli In reference to Message Id: 962847 Help!
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| 08/29/06 07:02pm |
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