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 #1719807


AlligatorLizardLady
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 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

We found this beautiful Southern Alligator Lizard in my boys sink yesterday:

igappleherp.com



I did the best I could with short notice and created this tank from our old frog tank:




He’s MUCH happier here than he was in the sink! But I know it’s not the best setup for him (or her)...



I got a thermometer, a UBA bulb and an undertank heat pad per the advice of the PetCo employee. Right now it’s VERY hot during the day (got up to 90 outside, 88 inside his tank in the ’cool’ zone) - I don’t have air conditioning so in the afternoon it’s not much difference the temp inside vs out. I’m in LA and it cools down nicely at night (today’s 90’s are now 69 and it’s just before 10pm so it’ll drop a little more by midnight). I’m not even sure I need the heater even at night but don’t know what his min/max temps should be...so am running the heat pad on a timer to only turn on at night...

He looks pretty healthy to me and snatches up large crickets no problem. Any advice for what the ’right’ setup should be for this guy?



04/29/08  12:26am

 #1719810


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1719807


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

I’m dusting his crickets with T-Rex Tree Frog Dust that I use for my firebellies (toads and newts)... another poster said you need phosphorus free calcium. Does this qualify?

How do you know if a vitamin sup is free of phosphoras? Will it state phosphorus free? Or if it doesn’t list phosphorus is that good enough?



04/29/08  12:46am

 #1720725


Aliceinwl
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1719810


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

Check the ingredients on the dust and look for phosphorus, or calcium phosphate. You should also get a light that produces UVB (UVA is not equivalent). UVB is necessary for the production of vitamin D3 which is necessary for calcium absorption. In addition I would recommend using a calcium supplement that also contains vitamin D3. I’ve used rep-cal with vitamin D3 for years with my als and have been very happy with it. When feeding, make sure you only give as many crickets as your al can eat in a sitting. Loose crickets will groom off their calcium powder and if these roamers become a big part of the diet, your al could still develop metabolic bone disease.



04/29/08  10:15pm

 #1720785


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: Aliceinwl   In reference to Message Id: 1720725


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

Thanks! - I picked up an ExoTerra tank with a UVB bulb today. Is UVA also necessary? or will he be fine w/o it? Check him out (is it a him BTW?!?) I think he definitely crawled up the sink - he loves climbing!




04/29/08  11:38pm

 #1720794


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1720785


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

And 1 more ? about water source. This is the kit I bought today:
http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/habitat_kit_rainforest.php
The water dish is pretty small (fits in corner like this: http://www.petco.com/product/104871/Zoo-Med-Repti-Rock-Reptile-Corner-Bowl.aspx)

Does he need a ’bath’ type setup like this? http://www.petco.com/product/14367/Zoo-Med-Repti-Ramp-Bowl.aspx

Or would a waterfall be better? http://www.petco.com/product/105903/Zoo-Med-Repti-Rapids-Waterfall.aspx



04/29/08  11:54pm

 #1720849


Aliceinwl
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1720794


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

The little bowl is fine; they’re not really into bathing. The UVA lights are more for basking / heat generation since UVB fluorescents do not produce a lot of heat. You should arrange "perches" to be within 10" of the UVB since levels taper off dramatically beyond this point. If using a UVA for heat, you want a localized basking spot with temps of 90-100 while the rest of the cage is in the mid to low 70s. This might be difficult to do in a square / vertically oriented tank. Getting a digital thermometer with a probe really helps get the temperatures right. It may be easier to re-out fit your first tank.

A 40-50 watt basking/UVA light on one side and fluorescent strip or coil on the other usually works well in a 10-20 gallon long tank. With the exo-terra you may want to see if you can find a 25 watt bulb and create an elevated basking site so that the floor of the cage will remain cool.

I’ve successfully kept als in the past at room temperatures without supplemental heat. If you can’t rearrange the tank in such a way to prevent things from getting too hot, I’d drop the UVA light.

I’m not real sure of the sex on your guy, but I would lean towards male.



04/30/08  01:59am

 #1721011


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: Aliceinwl   In reference to Message Id: 1720849


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

What’s the coldest the tank should get at night? What area of the country do you live in?



04/30/08  10:10am

 #1721861


Aliceinwl
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1721011


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

I’m in California on the central coast. You don’t need any additional heat at night. If he’s housed inside it’s probably much warmer than it would be outside. Lows in the 40s or 50s won’t hurt. Mine usually get down into the 60s at night.



05/01/08  04:25am

 #1722855


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: Aliceinwl   In reference to Message Id: 1721861


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

Wow, OK than I definitely do NOT need a heat pad I’m on the coast too but near LAX, it never drops below 40 here and rarely below 50 and even so in the house never gets below 55. Right now it’s a bit above 80 in the basking area but only slightly below 80 in the bottom. What can I do to cool it down below? I have the plants ’hanging’ from top to bottom figuring he’d climb up them but that doesn’t seem to be the case - he’s mainly climbing up the background then transitioning onto the vines from there. Should I hang them criss cross across the tank instead so as to keep the heat up top and shade the bottom?

Will wetting the bark more generously help keep it cool below? Any tips on where to buy a decent thermometor? The one we have measuring temps at the bottom is a tourist magnet we got on Santa Monica pier so it’s not exactly the most accurate measurement in the world I’m sure...

Any tips for ’sealing’ the background? The crickets are able to sneak around the top and get behind the background because it has 4 rectangular holes to allow wires (2 on top, 2 on bottom). I could cut a piece of styrofoam and stuff it in there but it wouldn’t look very good, any ideas on safe paint I could use to help it blend in up top? (down below it’s hidden by the substrate so wouldn’t matter as much. Maybe I could glue little rocks to it instead? The background is made of styrofoam but somehow they color it brown to look more natural. I know I could use silicone but that would be take a lot of silicone to fill up those holes enough for Crickets to not crawl thru. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all your help!



05/01/08  11:44pm

 #1723172


PrinceSushi
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1722855


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

Most exoterra cages aren’t good for California’s alligator lizards. They are ground dwelling lizards that need more length and width than height. He is probably climbing because it is getting too cool on the ground or there are not enough hiding spots.

To try to help solve this, you should add more floor space. At petco and petsmart they sell things call reptile hammocks which suction to the glass. They come in various sizes and can be thrown in a sink or dishwasher to clean since they are made of thick mesh. Try to fit one or two into the cage so he has more room to run around. If you do get hammocks or some type of shelving, try to also place plants or hides there as well.

Vines, ramps, and rocks can all be used to help him read higher levels and shelves/hammocks.

As long as your house isn’t getting below 50-60 at night, don’t worry to much. Anything lower might send him back into brumation though. A normal 50-60 watt basking bulb is cheapest and can easily provide one selected area heat. However, alligator lizard prefer to collect heat while hidden so try to provide cover with either fake plants, rocks or hides. So that he can sleep, you can use the heat pad at night, if it gets too cool.

To heat the top and cool the bottom, try the reptile hammocks and a lower wattage of bulb. The closer he is to the bulb, the more heat he will gain. Just try going down 10 watts. If you loose your 90-100 temps in the basking area, switch back to the old bulb and look into purchasing a different tank that isn’t so high.

Petco and petsmart or any pet store should sell digital probe thermometers. They are roughly $10-$50 depending on how fancy you want them. Those little dial stick on types, in your photo, can be as far as 20 degrees off which can be potentially life threatening to reptiles.

I don’t own an exoterra cage but I’ve heard of that background problem a million times. You should go to the gecko section or a day gecko forum and ask for help since exoterra cages are commonly used for them. I know I’ve heard various methods for fixing it but I just can’t remember them.



05/02/08  12:39pm

 #1723485


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: PrinceSushi   In reference to Message Id: 1723172


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

I added the UBA bulb to the top today and he’s happily sunning himself amongst the leaves/vines. With a 15w bulb It’s 88.9 degrees at the top now - should I get a bigger watt bulb to bring the temp up just a tad more or leave it as is since today is a moderate day (not too hot, nice outside in short sleeves)

He loves the vines and plants on the top and the bottom is now 74.4 in the middle of the ’forest floor’.

What time of day is best for feeding? Or should I give him 1-2 crickets in the morning and 1-2 at night? I’m feeding large crickets dusted with phosporas free calcium powder.



05/02/08  06:42pm

 #1723495


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1723485


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

Update on the heat - the light fixture for the XTerra tank isn’t exactly centered:

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752557

left side top on the side that’s not so close to the light bulb is 88.9 but right side directly underneath the bulb is actually 93.9 so I think the 15W bulb is just perfect. Agree?

Or should both sides of the ’sunning’ spot be over 90? What’s the max heat that should be in any given spot? I know above 110-115 the plastic on the tank would melt so would 100 be the max? Or is 90-100 the ’ideal range’ and a hot 105 day up top would be OK here and there for those few days of the year it gets above 80 in my house? (I don’t have air conditioning, I’m 5 miles from the coast by LAX airport so it’s only a few weeks a year that happens)



05/02/08  06:50pm

 #1723717


William kimmy
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1723495


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

hey i have a northan alligator lizard and i love him soo much.yout tank is great and make sure you have great soil to burrow and relax..also remember to keep him warn and comfortable and feed crickets well...i also noticed that you had carrots in the tank is that for the crickets? cause allies dont eat carrots...lol...bye



05/02/08  11:15pm

 #1723749


AlligatorLizardLady
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  Message To: William kimmy   In reference to Message Id: 1723717


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

He seems to be eating 2 large crickets/day - yes the carrorts are for the crickets not the lizard LOL :-)

Now that he’s out of my little 5gal tank I’ve turned that into a cricket only tank so I can buy more crickets at once and I don’t need carrots in the lizard tank since the crickets are only in there a few seconds before they get eaten up!

Crickets are more nutritious for the lizard if they are fed things like carrots, fish flakes and now I’ve learned orange slices! Anyhow, now ’Bob’ is in the tall tank and having a good time. I did read in nature they sometimes climb trees to eat baby birds/eggs! So though they spend a lot of time on the ground they like to climb too... mine sure does... I’ve got ~1.5" of ground cover, he’s made a nice little ’den’ in the corner where his whole body is buried but he can peep his head out to take a look around. Should I have the ground cover deeper than that? I’m leaving the dig. thermometer probe down in the ground tonight to see what the min. temp is at night time...my guess is it won’t drop below 70 but we’ll see.

THANKS!



05/03/08  12:26am

 #1736165


Reptilefreak101
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  Message To: AlligatorLizardLady   In reference to Message Id: 1723749


 New to Alligator Lizards - want to double check advice from pet store

ONE THING NO CARROTS NO VEGGIES IT RUINS THEIR DIGESTIVE SYSTEM



05/15/08  11:28am


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