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Marg View Profile |
I have updated and tried to organize info by sections. This is going to be a long post... Please read through Everything!!!! Titles will change with different information given So that it will be easier to find "certain info you are seeking :o) This by no means is set in stone... just the guide lines I have used for almost 5 years, with no problems _______________________________________________ If you have a Question... Please make a New Post, so that it does not get over looked as some one bumping the thread :o) _______________________________________________ I’ll try not to repeat myself too much in this one - LoL You can use Glass Tanks, Wood Built, or Rubber-Maid containers... The general rule is... Here is a Link for some nice containers... very clear looking - like glass - little more expensive than Sterolite... but less than glass tanks. Or you can find cheaper ones at a dollar store or wal-mart. Just make sure you have All the right equipment needed! (found at Wal-Mart [Hardware dept - $11.88] - Lowes, Home Depot, etc for less than $15) (Dial and "Stick On" gauges are Crap) the probe from the therm/hydrometer goes IN the Warm Side Hide - the unit goes In the cool side, Inside the tub/tank. Acu-Rite ~ Digital Thermeter/Hydrometer
Warm Side: between 90f - 94f (32.22C - 34.44 C) Cool Side:between 80f - 84f (26.67 C - 28.89 C) Humidity: between 50-60% (70% when in shed) *although some prefer to use lower temps, but personally, I would not go too much lower. (dont attach it to the hide - makes for a pain when cleaning) * Again... The Unit goes In cool side... near the Bottom of enclosure In temp = Cool side temp Out temp = Warm side temp Bottom Reading = Humidity Level Controlled by a Thermostat, or a dimmer switch at the least! __________ NO Heat Rocks!!! Snakes absorb heat through their belly. However, they do not have the nervous system We do... and do not know when too hot is too hot ...until it is too Late! They will lay on something that is warm, until it is too hot, too late, and they get burned. Belly Burn is Nasty, Unhealthy, and can be Very Costly!!! (to both you and the snake) __________ preferably Identical, so that they do not choose comfort over temps, and no log hides... they do not provide the security a BP needs (too wide open), and will allow heat to escape from inside the hide, where belly heat is provided/needed. to help the snake feel more secure... especially if you Insist on using a Larger ENCLOSURE. Most of us using glass ENCLOSUREs have some sort of background, mine is a piece of cloth that I found, with greenery pattern on it. Where the head goes, so will the body! (Sand will dry them out, get in their mouths and under scales and cause infection) Many use news paper,some use shelf liner, cypress mulch, etc. - No Contact Paper in the ENCLOSURE - Please, please read Care Sheets Link, preferably Before getting Any snake!!! With Proper Care... Most snakes can live 20-30 years :o) and depending on how Small, a 5 gallon would work as well. giving it more space, but not too much. Some prefer bigger, when they are full grown, but not required. Especially with hatchlings/babies! such as Bad Sheds, Not feeding, etc. When the time comes for a 20 gal Tank... the "long" size may be better, as BPs do not climb. Be sure you have All the equipment needed, and have your enclosure set up at Least 48 hours Prior to getting Any snake. I don’t use tubs or racks, so I can not give a lot of info on that... Here’s a Link, from the Corn forum, but has some basic info on tubs, racks, flexwatt tape, etc. UTH on one side, Thermostat/Dimmer Switch, therm/hydrometer in cool side, 2 hides, etc. and or temp/humidity control and need "Binder Clips", to secure the sides of the lid(s) If some one wants to add info about "Tubbing It" or if anyone want to add anything else, feel free... Quote: Anyone Needing Small/Shoebox tubs
(for babies/hatchlings, or just storing stuff - LoL) I was at "Dollar Tree" (a US - Nationwide Chain), and they have them (6 quart, I think (?), for a buck! I do not remember if they had any bigger than that... Quote: Please keep this bumped for newbies!!!
Quote: And before this goes any further...
This goes for Everyone... If you have a Question... Please make a New Post, so that it does not get over looked as some one bumping the thread :o) This covers most of it... * More info will be added, as I find it 
Marg Quote: If anyone would like to add info, or even opinion on anything, feel free...
Let’s not make this into a debating post!!!... No Arguing Please... If you have a problem with some thing, or some one’s reply, Please make a New post... or take it to PM :o) |
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| 01/16/10 06:14pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114311 ~ * SCALES AND OTHER EQUIPMENT * ~
Discussion on tank set up, camoflauge, placing Therm/hydrometer probe, etc... For Rats, click on the Home tab, then Rats |
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| 01/16/10 06:16pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114313 ~ * PROBE PLACEMENT * ~
Goes in enclosure like so:
old pic, more stuff in them now. Unit goes in cool side (inside enclosure, 2" from bottom) Wire thingy with PROBE goes in warm side hide. Reads like so: In: cool side temps Out: warm side temps humidity- bottom reading * If you tuck the wire under the edge of the hide... the weight of the hide should hold it into place... although... if the snake wants to move it... just keep an eye on where it is located. My BPs like to redecorate on their own every now and then :o) |
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| 01/16/10 06:18pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114314 ~ * PROBE INFO * ~
It really seems like the In and Out temps are switched for some reason... A: The reason the In and out temps seem backwards is because the unit is intended to be used as so: You would mount the unit next to a door/window (of a house), the probe wire would be threaded through a window/door jam to read Outside temps. Which would be the sensor reading "out" (Outside), and the unit/box reading "in" (inside the home). Make sence? LoL |
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| 01/16/10 06:21pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114315 ~ * Thermostats, Rheostats, and Dimmers * ~
This is the one I use right now. I have had it for almost 5 yrs, I only need to adjust it when the weather/season changes.
It is a "Dial Type" Thermostat. Some do not care for these, or even this particular Brand... but it works for me :o) You can plug 2 UTHs/heat sources into the unit, but if you use this type, make sure the wattage is ok for the unit. The Thermostat "unit" goes Outside of the enclosure... Run the wire into the enclosure, and then into the hide, just like the thermometer/hydrometer probe. You will need the Thermostat Probe reading the same spot the Warm Side Temps are being read. _________________________ Sorry, I do not have a list of thermostats. Will add as I find... If some one would like to add those, some, or what ever you use... Please feel free :o) Vypyrz added: "When using heat pads or Under Tank Heaters, it is safer to use it with a Control device. A Rheostat which basically works like a light dimmer. you manually control the electricity going to the heater which will adjust the temp. I have a Zoo Med Rheostat on one of my tanks. The other option is a Thermostat. These come in 2 types. One is called a proportional thermostat. Basically it uses a built in rheostat to keep the temp constant. And then there are normal thermostats, which basically work like your home thermostat does. When the heater gets cool it turns it on. When the set temp is reached it turns it off. There are many types of rheostats and thermostats available. Alot will depend on your budget. Also if you are electroncally inclined, alot of people buy parts and pieces from hardware stores and build their own. There is no written rule that says you must use controllers, But, there is always the chance for thermal runaway on an Uncontrolled heater, and most members on this forum Will Recommend using them. The $30-50 you invest now, may save you $100’s in Vet Bills, for thermal burns. Ultimately it will be your decision. I only advise to use controllers." "Basically you plug the rheostat into the wall. and plug the heater into the rheostat.. I used velcro that I got from Wal-mart to mount the t-stat and power strip to the stand. Hope this helps... " Isabela added: "At first you have to monitor the temps a lot, since it takes a while for the UTH to change its heat output. If you make any drastic changes on the light dimmer, it could take 1/2 an hour for the UTH to fully adapt. Once you get it in the general temp range you want, it only needs minor changes though" "This is what you do. 1.) Put the light dimmer in the "off" setting. 2.) Plug the light dimmer into the wall. 3.) Plug the UTH into the light dimmer. 4.) Turn the light dimmer on, picking a setting that you think will produce the right temp (this is a complete guess by you). 5.) Wait until the UTH is completely done heating up, while checking the temps the entire way there. 6.) Tweak the light dimmer by giving the UTH more or less power to give the perfect temp reading. 7.) Step 6 requires patience since the UTH takes a while to respond to light dimmer changes. They take a while to cool down/heat up the enclosure. 8.) Enjoy your safe setup and check the temps daily to see if it needs to be changed. A light dimmer won’t give you a temperature reading that you can set your UTH to. You have to do it all by trial and error. Only a thermostat has the ability to set a UTH to a certain temperature of your choice. Both units will not let the UTH go over their disgnated power levels unless they malfunction (which can happen and which is why cheap thermostats aren’t good). Hope that helped, Dennis" __________________________________ Edf added: The best thermostat is a Proportional Thermostat. Pricey, but really good t-stats. I use this with my incubator. Will work great for snake cages. 135 bucks Link Next is the Rancho’s and Johnson Controls, the click on and off kind. I am currently running snake UTH’s with Johnson Control. $75 bucks. Link These may also be found at reptile shows and such- then you wont have to pay shipping. Bt that sight is great- bought severla times from them before. Next is pet store thermostats that I have used: Zoomed Repti temp 500. Its dial, not digital, I have used it for cool sides for 2 tubs. Works good for a pet store buy and prolly for a few tubs- don’t know if I would trust it with a whole rack. It has a probe and you can turn the dial to control the temps, it clicks on and off. Found at pet stores- i believe i got mine from petsmart. Not sure of the price- cheaper than JC/Rancho’s tho. Not as good IMHO either. I also used the BAH 1000’s, but i do not recomend them. I had 3, 2 worked fine, one started to click o nand off a lot and temps were bouncy. I still have one here remaining as a emergency one or something. Those are the t-stats I have used and know about. :D |
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| 01/16/10 06:30pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114318 ~ * Thermostats, Rheostats, and Dimmers * ~
Can I use a Dimmer instead of a Thermostat? A : Yes. But... Light dimmers are a much cheaper solution, although they need occasional tweaking to keep the temps right. But if your house has a pretty constant temperature, then it won’t fluctuate very much You can’t just set a dimmer, and leave it alone like you can a thermostat A dimmer costs about $10 - $12 at home depot, in the "Lighting Dept.", or probably any hardware store for the same cost. |
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| 01/16/10 06:35pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114319 ~ * UTH Placement... and Heat Lamps * ~
here is a Link to a post where I, and other long time RZ Members, help and discuss a few things with Glass Enclosure Set Ups... How to place the UTH
Place the UTH "long ways" from the end, as shown in the pic. The UTH should be no more than Half of the length of the enclosure (1/3 is recommended), and as wide as possible, to the width. "Wide as possible" because you need heat in the warm side, other than In the hide. If you just have a UTH that is only as wide as the Hide, you will have problems heating the Entire Enclosure. I think this is where most people have temp issues! If the UTH is only as wide as the hide, you will only getting heat in the hide. If you have a UTH that is Wider than the hide, you have heat under/in the whole of the enclosure. Kinda like having a "space heater", You have a "space heater" pointing toward you in a cold room... you are warm... but the rest of the room is cold. Make sence? My tanks are larger than recommended, but they work for Me... does Not mean large enclosures will work for Everyone. My enclosures are 36" x 18" x 18" (40 gal "Critter Cages"). The UTH I use is 11" x 17" ( Ultratherm UTHs ) I have a UTH that covers about half the enclosure floor (1/3 is recommended -~- 1/2 - if using a large enclosure), Controlled by a Thermostat, Rhestat, or Dimmer Switch. Water bowls over a UTH tend to aid in build up of bacteria. You can place the water dish over the UTH area, but It is not recommend. If you wash the bowl Daily, which you should anyway, that would be ok... but that slimey film that builds up in the bottom of the bowl... well... yuk.! I wouldn’t drink from a slimey glass... nor give it to my cat :o) Same goes for Heat Lamps... They will also cause bacteria build up, and slimey film. Heat lamps should only be used If yo can Not reach desired temps, with using only a UTH. I do on occassion use a heat lamp, but I only turn on, to less than half (with a dimmer switch), when it is extremely cold out side (have only had to use the it 3 times the whole winter). UTHs can run at ~110F + without something controlling it. Anouk said: Not using a thermostat is like having a ticking bomb. My Zoo Med UTH got VERY hot. When I got a thermometer a few days before I got a thermostat, it read as high as 117 degrees. I suspect it had gotten even hotter since it shattered the glass at the bottom of the tank. The only thing that saved my snake from burns or death was luck and having thick substrate, rather than newspaper or paper towels. ___________________________________ Q : I use a red heat bulb stays on all the time. I have a 20 long I have a uth but it is for a 5 gallon, I think can I use that on my 20 long? A : You Can use both, but you need to get a larger UTH If the UTH is only as wide as the hide, you will only getting heat in the hide If you have a UTH that is Wider than the hide, you have heat under/in the whole enclosure But... Heat lamps tend to Dry Out Humidity ______________________________________ Q : Can I use a human heat pad to keep my snake warm? A : Human heating pads are a No No!!! They are Not meant to run 24/7, which can cayse them to short out, causing burns, fire, electrical shock (to the snake, and or You), etc. |
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| 01/16/10 06:38pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114321 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
Vypyrz added: "Marg, Do you mind if I post some pics of my UTH set-up in this thread? I got some good ones that go from the improper uth to insulating it to filling in the screen top I thought they might do some good here but I can put them in a new post if you want..." Marg: "Anything informational is fine" :o) |
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| 01/16/10 06:40pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114322 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
Vypyrz added: "This post is going to be pic heavy. Hopefully someone can use the info or ideas. I was having trouble maintaining temp/humidity. This was for two reasons. UTH too small, and even thoough I had 2 heat lamps, the open screen top just let everything out. The following pics illustrate the mods I made to my enclosure and now everything is alot easier to manage. And thanks Marg for the advice... 1) If YOUR tank is this big, and YOUR UTH is this big, you will have problems.
2) The more appropriate size. I used the Exo-Terra Jungle UTH...
3)I purchased a sheet of styroprene insulation at my local home improvement store. About $16.00 for a roughly 6’ X 12" sheet.
4) I cut it to the appropriate size. Just a little longer than the UTH. This prevents the heat from escaping out of the bottom. The insulation can be applied with foil tape, packing tape, duct tape, etc... Or depending on the bottom of YOUR tank simply cutting it for a snug fit may also work... P.S. I also bought some little plastic, stick-on furniture feet and applied to the bottom tank frame, since the insulation will raise the end of YOUR tank approx 1/2".
5) Now for the top. To help keep the heat and humidity in, I needed to close in the screen. I did this by cutting strips of cardboard and wrapping them in foil. I used strips, instead of one large piece, which lets me adjust the opening on top to accommodate heat lamps when needed.
6) If, and when, a lamp is needed, I remove 2 of the panels and apply 2 strips of foil only. This prevents the heat lamp from being too close to the cardboard. It looks like this.
7) What I did for the inside of the tank was on the warm side I placed a piece of flat rock on top of the UTH, and placed the hide on top of that. Kind of a covered basking spot that prevents the snake from laying directly on the UTH. In the middle, still over the UTH, I basically stacked two water bowls that I bought from a garage sale. They are also placed agaist the bottom of the tank with substrate around them. They help radiate some of the heat into the tank, don’t get that hot, and look kind of cool. Plus, when it’s shed time, I just flip the bowl over and put water in it to raise the humidity.
I also have everything plugged into rheostats and timers, which are plugged into a power strip with a built in surge protector. Hopefully, this may help answer some peoples heating questions..." Marg added: Thankx for taking the time to add that info, very helpful :o) |
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| 01/16/10 06:44pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114324 ~ * LIGHTING * ~
Quoted from a reply by BigSlickSerpants: Think about it... The best lighting for Ball Pythons is what they would get naturally! So...Since they are "mostly nocturnal" maybe you can simulate twilight or moonlight...!?! Bottom line... They don’t need any special UVa or UVb spectrum lighting. Can it hurt to light their enclosure with this? No. It’s just a waste of your money. All they need is a day and night cycle of light and dark. Because the area of Africa they come from is right near the equator... most people usually do 12-hours light and 12-hours dark. Others (typically breeders) may take it a step further and do the following: June, July and August 14-hours of light and 10-hours of dark September, October, November, March, April and May 12-hours light and 12-hours dark December, January and February 10-hours of light and 14-hours of dark Again...this is not what I’m suggestion YOU do. I’m just providing the info. |
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| 01/16/10 06:47pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114325 ~ * STUCK SHED * ~
Bathing is not recommended, but can be used as a last resort. You can also try the "pillow case trick" Get a damp towel and a low thread count pillow case (cheap/breathable). Wrap the snake in the damp towel, and place it in the pillow case. Tie a lose knot, tight enough so the snake can’t escape, but loose enough you can get it untied. Let the snake crawl around in the pillow case for 10-15 minutes. This puts the snake in a humid place, and the towel gives the snake something to rub against to help scrub and remove the unshed skin. You may have to do this a few times until all the shed comes off. Never pick the shed off yourself, this could pull off fresh skin/scales. |
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| 01/16/10 06:48pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114326 ~ * ENCLOSURE SIZES * ~
Q : I have a 50gal Long (48in L x 20in H x 12.5in W) Is this okay for a ball python? It will start in there at whatever size I get it, whether it’s a hatchling or adult, it’s the only tank I have. Will it be okay in there? As a hatchling (if it comes that way) should I add another hide or two so it doesn’t feel like it’s in a huge place? A : Edf added: "A 50 gall long is on the big side for an adult bp. For a baby- I would say NO... Too much big space can stress out a baby bp. If that is the only tank you have and you wont buy another one, get a full grown bp, or a f/g ratsnake ( or any other snake that would use a bigger space)- they will appreciate the extra space. You really shouldnt try to make a snake work with an aquarium. Too much extra space can stress some snakes out, and bp’s are generally shy creatures. What you can do is go with a tub set-up- they are cheaper than aquariums, and so you can go through the sizes. Cluttering up the tank is an option, but you’ll be able to fit 5-6 hides in there, fake vines, driftwood, and a whole bunch of extra stuff- only to have to clean that all every week, and th ebaby snake may still be stressed. Its also harder to control the temps and humidity in a larger tank. Personaly, if you really want a bp- I would read up on it- this thread is great- and buy what will be in the best interest of the snake instead of trying to make the tank you have work. You eventally can use the 50 gall tank, just not if you buy such a small snake." |
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| 01/16/10 06:55pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114328 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
Quote: If you have a Question... Please make a New Post... so that it does not get over looked as some one bumping the thread :o) THIS THREAD WILL BE LONG ENOUGH - WITHOUT QUESTIONS! |
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| 01/16/10 06:58pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114330 ~ * SOME TUB INFO * ~
Aproximate sizes needed: under 400-500grams goes in a 15 qt tub aprox 400/500-1500 grams a 32 qt tub, and aprox 1500 grams and up goes in the 41 qt tub. Some may be bumped up to a bigger tub sooner then others, depends on the snake... Flameethrower added: Just a addition, most stores dont carry 32 qts anymore. but they are stocked on 28qts which are basically same size Also added by Flamethrower: TUB SET UP IF NOT USED IN A RACK. TUB SETUP IF NOT USED IN A RACK.
DON’T Peel off the UTH backing leave it on.
Marg: Thanks for the info :o) |
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| 01/16/10 07:28pm |
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Flameethrower View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114333 ~ * SOME TUB INFO * ~
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| 01/16/10 07:42pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114325 ~ * Miscellaneous * ~
NEW BP - ACCLIMATION PERIOD Be sure to leave it be for 2 Weeks... Only thing you need to go into the enclosure for is to change water daily, and spot cleaning. No Handling! No Feeding! You said you have a 40 g breeder tank... Be sure to "stuff it UP" well... too much wide open space can stress a snake out. BPs are not as forgiving as Corns, can be rather picky when it comes to their "environment ================================================ So, You feed in a separate container? Most of us feed In the enclosure... As long as you don’t "Smell like food", you will not be Seen as food. ============================= Quote: Don’t know how to link it yet?
Click [ link ], then paste the "properties" then click [ end link ] (where you are making a reply). *Right click any link, highlight where it says "address: (URL)", Right click, copy, then paste where needed... Or... you can open a page, copy "http://" from top/search bar, and paste from there. Or... you can copy a link, click "link maker" ...a lil box will pop up... paste link, and title the link, etc... self explanatory when you open it :o) * * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE... ========================================== Feeding F/T (Frozen/Thawed) Any prey not warmed properly will Not bee seen as food! Pinkie Mice are Too small for even a hatchling BP, and may not be seen as a food source. You should feed juvie/young BP small adult mice, or large Hopper mice as the least. A pink Rat is Much Bigger than a pink Mouse! A pink Rat is about the size of a small adult or hopper Mouse (hopper = next size down from small adult) New Born... no fur ...thus Pink ========================================== BP won’t Eat? Not eating what you are offering? Didn’t ask the person you acquired your BP from what they were feeding it? Call the breeder/person you received the snake from, and Ask what it was being fed, f/t or live! Live Feeding... ========================================== Never Ever leave a live feeding unattended!!! The snake can fall prey to the prey itself! Assist Feeding (force feeding) should be done Only as a Last Resort... and should only be done by some one with Experience! A Roaming is Usually a sign that some thing is Wrong. Temps/humidity off... poop or urine/urrates not cleaned, security issues, etc. =================================== Q : Do BPs grow to the size of their tanks? Or is their adult size based on how much they are fed, and the snake itself? A : No, BPs (any snake) do not grow to the size of their Enclosure! The Size of a BP can be determined by how much it is fed... If it is Underfed, it may end up being smaller than it should be, but that is borderline animal abuse. If you Overfeed.. it can cause health issues such as.. Obesity, enlarged organs (which can be fatal), going off feed, stress, etc. ========================================== General size... Some get larger but... not typical Females grow to 5-6 ft Males 3-4 ft =============================== Q : Also, I put a UTH on one side of my BP’s tank today A : This would be the "warm side", where you Need to know temps, so that you don’t "bake" or burn your snake. =================================== Q : but I am unsure about lighting still A : Generally they don’t Need light, but... it is recommended to have a 12 hrs on / 12 hrs off cycle... I just use "room lighting". Quote: I am currently using an infrared light bulb that generates a bit of heat
I use 40 gallon Critter Cages, so they are rather large... Larger than recommended... but they work for me... I always recommend smaller.. unless you are an experienced keeper, and know how to maintain large enclosures. They can be a bit of a pain to keep temps. If and when I need to "UP the temps" in the Cool side... I use a 75 watt Exotera heat bulb... controlled with a Dimmer (slide type [found at Lowes in the Lighting dept $10] ), usually only set at less than half. Quote: i figured if i put the water dish underneath, it would help the humidity in the tank a bit
It can help, but... you also need to remember ...heated water will grow bacteria (that slimy film), and the water dish Must be cleaned Daily! Aside from offering fresh water daily :o) If you have a screen top/lid... cover 95% of it with some thing... Foil Duct Tape, Plexiglass, wood (No Pine or Cedar), etc. I have 1/3 covered with foil tape (where the light sits on top), and 2 pieces of cardboard covered with aluminum foil, overlapping each other... so I can slide it opened, or closed more, as the weather changes. (gets very humid here in the summer and dry in the winter). I have used this method for 3 1/2 yrs, and rarely need to adjust it... except, as I said, seasonal change. =================================================== * * UTHs... When I got mine, I called and spoke to the guy (forget his name), and he said, it Says Often no need for a therm, but he always uses a thermostat, regardless. The papers that come with the UTH says to get polystyrene, for thermal insulation. He said he does not use that, and just applies the UTHs with Foil Duct Tape... one piece on each corner. For mine, when I was setting them up... they did reach 101 f before resetting my Stat. Dimmer switch, at the least, should be used. ========================================== Edf added; I don’t see my snakes soak in their dishes- i use smaller dishes. IF your humidity is right, your snake doesn’t need to soak. and if your snake is healthy, he won’t need to soak. Quote: If you have a Question... Please make a New Post... so that it does not get over looked as some one bumping the thread :o) THIS THREAD WILL BE LONG ENOUGH - WITHOUT QUESTIONS! |
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| 01/16/10 07:49pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Flameethrower In reference to Message Id: 2114337 ~ * SOME TUB INFO * ~
Thanks for adding the pics Flameethrower dunno why the others didn’t work - lol Marg |
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| 01/16/10 07:56pm |
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Steven11788 View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114340 ~ * SOME TUB INFO * ~
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| 01/16/10 09:24pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114313 ~ * MItes * ~
here is what most of us use... Provent-A-Mite (P.A.M.) P.A.M. is the only product proven to completely kill all stages of Mites, and their eggs. __________________________________ Most of us swear by P-A-M (provent-A-Mite) Especially with more than one animal/enclosure. Order the PAM (takes a few days for shipping tho) ...goes a long way. Works similar to "flea bombs". * This is what I was told to do by the customer service rep I spoke to Remove All animals from room being sprayed! Including fish and birds... highly Toxic to All animals. If you have a fish tank... turn off the pumps, and cover with saran wrap! Remove and throw away the substrate. Thoroughly Clean Everything. Replace fresh substrate... if they are really bad, switch to news paper or paper towels until the problem is eradicated. Spray substrate/news paper/paper towels with the PAM, Do Not spray the water bowl! But do clean it thoroughly! Do NOT spray directly on the snake!!! Replace hides... you can spray those too... just be sure they are Dry Before placing back into enclosure (spray and turn upside down so they air out). If the Mites are bad... I would leave most of your decor (vines, etc) out, until problem is resolved. Spray around the enclosures... table/rack/whatever the enclosures are kept on/in. * This is what was sugested by another member here You can do a short soak for 10 - 15 minutes with each snake... Use Luke Warm (not cold, but not too hot) water, with ONE drop of dish soap. Water deep enough to almost cover the snake, but you want to have room for it to breath :o) This will kill the Mite on the snake... or at least some of them. I used a tupper ware container... poked holes in the top and paced back into the enclosure. PLEASE Do Not forget the snake is soaking... Not that you will ...people get distracted... or if you place container on a counter/table, be sure it won’t get knocked over... don’t wanna have a drowned snake on your hands. After spraying... wait till Dry and all Fumes are gone (I waited 45 minutes) and replace snake into enclosure. Took about 9-11 days to work... Have had no Mites since 2004! * and Still have the Original Can from way back then :o) Marg __________________________ Link If you have any questions about it, you can call Bob Pound at Proproducts 845-628-8960. You can also order it here: Link Link |
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| 01/20/10 07:36pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114311 ~ * Injuries from Unattended Live Feeding * ~
They thoughtit would be good info to add to the Setting Up Your Enclosure post (which I Will add) There are pictures... This is Quite GRAPHIC!!! They are NOT My, so I will post only the link I was given... Live Feeding Injuries  |
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| 01/23/10 01:34am |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2116470 ~ * Injuries from Unattended Live Feeding * ~
Sorry, was 1:30 am when I postwed this |
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| 01/23/10 12:52pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2116571 ~ * HOusing Multiple Snakes* ~
yes, but Not Recommended! Should it be done? NO!!! Aside from Canibalism ...you have... They do not cuddle/sleep together... They Dominate! kinda like saying.. "this is My spot" Stress from issues like this will make one, or more, weaker and risk illness, Canibalism, bad sheds, not eating, etc. IF: One gets mites, they both get mites... One gets an RI, they Both get an RI (Resperatory Infection)... One gets any other infection/disease... the Both get it. If you need to do a fecal float... you won’t know which poo is which snake’s poo (unless you sit and wait for it.. lol) You have Two vet bills instead of One... Double bill, double meds, double stress! with many other reasons... other "housing together" posts: More than one bp in a tank? Living together For those who missed these pics...
If you look closely - you can see that the Eater was Smaller than that of the one Eaten!!! This poor BP was housed with a Boa :o
From what I read on these Boa/BP pics... the boa regurged only minutes after eating the BP. Look at the damage the stomache acids caused.. the BP could not be saved. |
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| 01/23/10 08:49pm |
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Nate304 View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2116714 ~ * HOusing Multiple Snakes* ~
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| 01/26/10 04:52pm |
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Prettygirlpittie View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114311 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
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| 01/26/10 07:49pm |
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Wintergreen View Profile |
Message To: Prettygirlpittie In reference to Message Id: 2117641 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
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| 02/01/10 09:30pm |
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Sra View Profile |
Message To: Wintergreen In reference to Message Id: 2119554 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
These are lamp dimmers, great for zoomed or flukers or whatever heat mat you use. I do NOT use these on my racks that use a lot of heat tape, or on multiple cages. They are about $10 and can be bought at your local hardware store, in the lighting section. Here’s the controller interface:
Your UTH will plug into the dimmer, and the dimmer into the wall. Very simple, right? :)
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| 02/02/10 10:02am |
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Prettygirlpittie View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114311 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
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| 02/05/10 02:13pm |
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Marg View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114322 ~ * SETTING UP YOUR ENCLOSURE * ~
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| 02/07/10 06:16pm |
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Daynegerous View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2121281
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| 02/11/10 11:10pm |
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Daynegerous View Profile |
Message To: Marg In reference to Message Id: 2114321 ~ * UTH Placement... and Heat Lamps * ~
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| 02/11/10 11:17pm |
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