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 #695379


Bozzee
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 High Humidity

Has any one got any good advise on how to keep the humidty down in my boas tank? The humidity is ranging from 80 to 85. Any advise at all will be greatly appretiated. Thanks a mill.



03/16/06  03:46pm

 #695394


Razeraze
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  Message To: Bozzee   In reference to Message Id: 695379


 High Humidity

put in a vent.



03/16/06  03:53pm

 #695433


Bozzee
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 695394


 High Humidity

Hey razeraze. The is already 2 vents, one on the bottom of the left side wall and one at the top of the right side wall. They are about 5cm in diameter. The weather here has been very wet and rainy and the general humidity is high. Do you think adding another vent would help? I know that leaving the humidity that high can cause respiratory problems and cause bacteria and stuff to grow in the tank. Thanks for your advise.



03/16/06  04:15pm

 #695467


Razeraze
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  Message To: Bozzee   In reference to Message Id: 695433


 High Humidity

if the house is humid turn on the air conditioning. i use regular floor vents with my cages so i can open and close them.



03/16/06  04:27pm

 #695493


Bozzee
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 695467


 High Humidity

I wish I was that lucky. I live in South Africa. Very few ppl have airconditioners in there houses. It is not needed really. Anyhow, the airconditioner we do put in tend to raise the humdity, we had that problem with our server room at work. Thanks for your quick replies. I will check replies tomorrow. Thanks again.



03/16/06  04:45pm

 #695519


Razeraze
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  Message To: Bozzee   In reference to Message Id: 695493


 High Humidity

air conditioners take out the humidity in a room they don’t really cool it.

in south africa i don’t know what to tell you. you could own a native species they should be used to it. good luck finding an answer. maybe some dry ice in the room to help take the water out of the air.



03/16/06  05:01pm

 #695634


Coheed and cambria
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 695519


 High Humidity

if you can find a bulb that drys the cage out...i got a 250 watt flood buld in my ig cage that takes away 50% of the humididty in about 2 hours which gets annoying..but yea thats all i can think of


chris



03/16/06  06:24pm

 #696479


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Coheed and cambria   In reference to Message Id: 695634


 High Humidity

Try a much smaller water bowl within the enclosure. I think it is much better to have a water bowl that is too small for Your snake to soak in, than it would be to have a respiratory infection set in from extreme humidity levels within the enclosure. A ceramic heat emitter will eat up humidity within an enclosure as well, especially a glass aquarium type with a screen top. This type of enclosure and heat source may be the best option in Your area. Good luck!



03/17/06  01:17am

 #696539


Bozzee
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 696479


 High Humidity

Thanks for the help guys. Will try your suggestions and see what works. I just got these 2 rtb from this guy yesterday. He couldn’t have cared less about them. Their living conditions were really atrocious. I had to help. Anyway, thanks again for your responses.



03/17/06  02:27am

 #697066


Coheed and cambria
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  Message To: Bozzee   In reference to Message Id: 696539


 High Humidity

wow ur lucky....im having probs with low humidity...btu yea thatss good that you got those snakes out of their bad situations....good luck


chris



03/17/06  04:37pm

 #698157


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 696479


 High Humidity

monkeyboy i worry about the jail cells you keep your snakes in.

mine has a huge water bowl and humidity or respiratory diseases is not a problem. i am sure in the wild they do not come across small pathetic puddles. if the bowl effects your humidity that much you need a bigger cage where humidity can escape. or you can keep them in a small jail like facility with a small water dish so they can’t soak if they need/want to. you should not think minimum with a snake. minimum water/ minimum height/minimum natural environment.


i think nature and huge zoo enclosure when i build for my animals. they deserve it. that is why i don’t breed i don’t have the room for 6 400+ gallon cages.



03/18/06  02:42pm

 #700712


Bozzee
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 698157


 High Humidity

Hi Guys, I put in another vent and added a light bulb. It is working perfectly so far. The humidity sits at about 50% during the day and raises to about 60 at night. Thanks for you suggestions, they helped alot. Hare and Ares are much happier now.



03/20/06  02:57am

 #700812


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 698157


 High Humidity

I don’t keep My animals in jail cells, but Boaphile Boa Cages with 8 square feet of ground space with shelving to boot for more room. You should go back and re-read this entire thread and learn a bit more about Me and how well I keep My boas before bashing, Sir. The whole point of the advice given was to try to think outside the box a bit from traditional guidelines that work here in the states, and try to help a fellow Boa owner who lives in South Africa, where there is very high ambient humidity, to lower his humidity levels for the good of the Boas overall health. This was not some ploy by Me to encourage minimalism.



03/20/06  08:56am

 #702237


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 700812


 High Humidity

i might have jumped the gun on you a bit. i don’t like breeder set ups and 8 square feet means you keep a 7 foot snake in a 4 x 2 cage? i have water bowls bigger than that. sounds like a little too small for me. mine has 12.5 square feet of floor space and 3 shelvs and a large tree.

it is going to be nearly impossible for this person to reduce humidity if the outside air is very humid. i think we should all think outside the box. hence my veiw on 110 basking spots. on one post you try to think outside the breeders you so bravely defend in another post.

i am glad you are here helping. what it comes down to is the cage will always be as humid or more humid than the surronding room. never less unless it has a dehumidfier/ dry ice/ air conditioner or a substrate that sucks out humidity.



03/21/06  01:05am

 #703568


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 702237


 High Humidity

I know You don’t like the breeder set ups, and Yes I do keep a 7 foot snake in a 4x2 cage, and Yes, I agree that it is a bit small. I have cages with expandable ends and I am planning to add another 2x2 section to 2 of them that house My bigger girls just as soon as I get My tax refund this year. This will give them 12 square feet of floor space and should be a bit better for them. I am not the evil breeder You seem to think I am, but, an advancing Herpeculturist that has taken the next step in the hobby by breeding some of His snakes. I am not the great defender of professional breeders by and large, and I do indeed think outside the box on many issues. I just feel it is best to advise novice keepers to go with the cookie cutter advice that works well as evidenced by the most experienced hands in the herp community. They can play around and manage a bit better when they have a bit more experience. Best not to confuse them too much with husbandry advice until they are ready to tweak things a bit more.

I live in New Orleans La., the relative humidity here in the summer time is often 100%, it is sometimes close to 0% at times in the winter. That said, it does take some thinking out of the box to provide the best conditions in a captive environment here. The small water bowl is one of those adjustments, but don’t worry, I let ’em out of jail to soak in My bathtub about once a week. In reality, a Boa Constrictor typically soaks for a reason. They will soak for some relief from extreme temperatures, to feel more secure if enough hides are not available, to drown mites, fleas, or ticks, to aid with defecation if constipated due to low humidity, dehydration, or substrate impaction, to loosen skin for a shed if humidity is too low, etc. etc. etc. None of these issues exist in My enclosures, but I’ll give ’em a soak once a week anyway. Some of them seem to really enjoy it and some really don’t seem to like it much at all.



03/21/06  09:35pm

 #703892


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 703568


 High Humidity

i am not bashing you. i am glad you are not for the puppy mills of the herp society that i see all the time. i am also glad you plan on giving your snakes more space.

i do agree some beginners need a cut and dry cookie cut answer. i just wish some of the beginers would research the animal themselves and find out more about it’s natural habbitat.

i hope you realize after losing two monitors by setting up puppymill way i changed my monitor and snake set up to match the wild the best i could. that is why i try to push newbies and experianced keepers like your self to look into the nature of the reptile what ever it is. realize branches and greenery cause brain stimulation and a more active snake.
giving an animal the option to climb when it wants/soak when it wants and bask at a gradient of temps can only help the animal’s life. now if you don’t give them proper space and keep a temp at 110F you will dehydrate and kill your snake. this again is why i say my set ups and cages are not for everyone. i lost 44.5 sq feet(my entire dinning room) to my water monitor. the worst part is her next enclosure will have to be bigger. i see people breed and keep them in much smaller enclosures with lower basking temps. i don’t feel that is fair to the animal.



03/22/06  02:38am

 #703914


Bozzee
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 703892


 High Humidity

I agree with razer. You can’t comprimise on size. I’ve seen ppl keep a 15 foot brum in a 12x4x4 tank. They snake just lies there. It is really sad. I am busy actually trying to build 2 relica’s of your enclosure Razer. Its a bit of work but doesn’t cost that much. The wood for 1 enclosure costs about R400(about $65) which isn’t bad. As for the humidity, the basking lamps work wonders. Although the hudity raises to about 65 at night but I don’t think that is to seroius(please correct me if I am wrong). thanks again for the suggestions.



03/22/06  05:20am

 #728549


Razeraze
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  Message To: Bozzee   In reference to Message Id: 703914


 High Humidity

how are the cages coming? how are the snakes doing?



04/07/06  02:06am

 #728562


Kias Mom
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 728549


 High Humidity

I realize that I am newer to this site/husbandry but I feel like I should throw my 2 cents in. I know that both monkey and Raz both care for their snakes very much and do so very well. Raz - you have your opinions and ideas of what is best for your snake. And monkey has his. I think that every one of us who is here because we are doing the best that we can and always looking to impove our set ups. We cannot expect everyone else here to do the same, or think the same, but we can SHARE what we have experienced in order to give people ideas on how to modify their pet’s environments. As two of the most knowledgable people on this site I hate to see either of you sending shots to the other. No matter what your personal beliefs (and I appreciate you sharing them) personal attacks are not necessary. People can disagree respectfully. Just keep in mind that 95% of the people replying to any post are doing so with the best of intentions in mined...

Patty



04/07/06  02:36am

 #728777


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Kias Mom   In reference to Message Id: 728562


 High Humidity

Very well stated, Patty. Presently, I believe Razeraze, Sanctuary, and I have, through these healthy discussions, learned to respect each others opinions more. My hope is that the discussions on differing views continue to take place, so that We all may learn a few things, Myself included. I think some of these discussions were just the shot in the arm these forums needed to become better. I try not to get personal. I would rather debate the merits of Our differing opinions when they come up. I believe You will find that in the future, We will have more healthy debates that will likely stay more civilized, at least I hope so. I believe We have gained respect for each other through these discussions, and can in fact, learn a bit from each other as time goes on.



04/07/06  10:11am

 #730761


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 728777


 High Humidity

i try not to get personal or do shots to anyone. the problem with my advice is it goes against most care sheets(if not all) and most breeder set ups(if not all) how ever there are plenty of monitor keepers i know who keep boids and pythons in the same matter i do. they changed their minds to be more natural and more zoo habbitat/enclosre than breeder cage. take a look at these monitor cages and imagine how your snakes would be in them much like i did.Link Link Link Link Link Link Link

after treating my monitors like this i could not treat my boa any less. i know boas are not very smart but i am sure they would be more active and enjoy their lives better if they were given cages like this. but doing this is expensive and space consuming. how ever i am only happy if my animals have wonderful cages to explore.

a wonderful reptile keeper once wrote me this when i was frusterated here.

Quote:

Tell them to go outside and use their temp gun to check the surface temps. In the sahde of course those temps will be cooler, but in the sun you’ll find things are heated up. From the ground to rocks to tree branches.

Snakes may not seek out as high of temps as a monitor they do indeed utilize temps. If they ddin’t they would not be able to digest large meals.

I have dealt with many snake people and the belief of not giving them temp choices. They want to dial in 80’s and stick with it. That is why it takes them 2-3 years to grow them to maturity. Also the fact they feed once a week etc. if they fed daily they would realize the temps are not working. They would indeed then have to give more temperature choices. In turn the snakes would grow much faster.



well to each his own. this is my view and my fiance’s nothing more.



04/08/06  04:15pm

 #731640


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 730761


 High Humidity

Quote:

try not to get personal or do shots to anyone. the problem with my advice is it goes against most care sheets(if not all) and most breeder set ups(if not all) how ever there are plenty of monitor keepers i know who keep boids and pythons in the same matter i do. they changed their minds to be more natural and more zoo habbitat/enclosre than breeder cage. take a look at these monitor cages and imagine how your snakes would be in them much like i did



Quote:

I have dealt with many snake people and the belief of not giving them temp choices. They want to dial in 80’s and stick with it. That is why it takes them 2-3 years to grow them to maturity. Also the fact they feed once a week etc. if they fed daily they would realize the temps are not working. They would indeed then have to give more temperature choices. In turn the snakes would grow much faster.



The problem I have with Your philosophy, is that it is just that, a philosophy. Much of the advice You give is based on that philosophy, which is obviously guided by Your experience with monitors. There is no scientific proof to back that philosophy up. You gotta give Me more than that for Me to be convinced, if I am to throw away the conventional wisdom of tried and true experiences with the most experienced hands in the Boa Constrictor community today.

Your friends advice clearly is bogus when it comes to Boa Constrictors, and is misdirected. He criticizes growing up Boa Constrictors for 2-3 Years to adulthood. He advocates feeding daily. That philosophy is against everything You say You stand for. You perpetuate this purist view of naturalistic environments and mimicking the wild conditions, yet You site this guys advice as being what shaped Your philosophy. Tell Us, What Boa Constrictor in the wild is given the opportunity to feed daily, or once a week for that matter? You do realize that they are largely ambush predators that have to hunt and hope that the prey gets close enough to them for a strike. This doesn’t happen as often as most of Us feed Our Boas. What Boa Constrictor in the wild is exposed to a surface in excess of 700 degrees, as is Your exposed CHE inside of Your enclosure? Why would You want to grow a Boa Constrictor quicker than it would grow in nature, especially when it has been proven to drastically shorten the lifespan of the snake when overfed? You see, there are good reasons why I challenge Your advice, and largely these questions have not been adequately addressed in My opinion. It seems to Me that You would rather chastise Me, and others, for having too small of an enclosure for Your choice, rather than validating Your own philosophy with real tried and true proof that conventional wisdom is wrong. Also You defend Your temperatures by saying well let Me take My temp gun out and measure some surface temperatures I find outside. I can fry an egg on a sewer drain cover here in New Orleans the summertime, that does not mean that this is a surface that I’d likely find a Boa Constrictor basking upon, or rather frying on.. I’m not trying to stir You up Guy, but just look at the attempt at respect that I tried to show You in the previous post in this thread, and look at Your response. I’ve got to say something to validate why I disagree at times with regards to Your husbandry advice. Well, so much for that.



04/09/06  03:03am

 #733851


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 731640


 High Humidity

you still don’t get it. jody my friend has breed and raised boas of all breeds not just red tails. he has also raised pythons of all breeds. along with many zoo keepers i talk to. in fact jim nesci i just spoke to yesterday. he said now that he had the money to put in zoo like enclosures with raident heat pannels he sees his snakes spending time in the hotter areas that he didn’t think they would like.

monkyboy you mean to tell me you can fry an egg on the street and have never seen a snake bask on the street. my buddy went to arizona and said they were all over the streets. the proof is in the pudding. nature has no problem doing it right. if a snake is hungry it will eat or it will die. plain and simple. in fact many komodo dragons are dieing from starvation because their metabolisms are faster. just because a snake can go longer with out food than a monitor doesn’t mean it will over eat if given the chance.


over eating is a health issue nothing more. it needs to be addressed as a health issue. an increase in excersize or a decrease in food is the only way to fix that. i just spoke with the reptile currator of the zoo which kept popye(oldest boa) they said they feed weekly and have never had a problem with obesity. but look at their caging. stop talking to breeders and start talking to zoos. many zoos try to mimic nature.



04/10/06  04:05pm

 #733998


Razeraze
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 733851


 High Humidity

i guess the best way to say it is. i have kept snakes in enclosures like breeders. i find they aren’t very active. then i got into monitors and changed my view of snakes to more like a zoo enclosure or what the animals are exposed to in the wild. i find my snake is more active and digest faster. i also find that breeders and most small caging keepers could care less about brain activity(another thing i got into because of monitors) by giving space and choices of temps/ food the snake will decide for itself what it likes and dislikes. in my 7 years of keeping i have never had a problem.

monkyboy please give me some people you respect in raising snakes and i will ask them about their enclosures and obesity.



04/10/06  05:14pm

 #734031


Razeraze
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 733998


 High Humidity

i already spoke to the one you mentioned jeff ronne. i was not happy to speak with him. he recomended i post on a forum. i told him i kept monitors and was getting into snakes. i told him i was going to build a zoo like enclosure. he said he was "in the cage buisness" so wouldn’t give me advice as to temprature gradients in big cages or advise on more natural enviorements. in fact he said it was like" going to a ford dealership and asking how to build a car" really friendly guy.

puppy mill nothing more in my opinion. i will keep asking zoos and people with small collections but big enclosures. breeders do what is best for them nothing more. that is why zoos keep boas alive for 30-40 years and breeders don’t.



04/10/06  05:33pm

 #734846


TheHerpKing
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 734031


 High Humidity

You ever want some detailed information from zoos, let me know, I’ve worked/volunteered for them for the past 10 years, and my dad is the director of the local zoo. It’s some pretty neat stuff though. And yeah, personally I’m a fan of the large naturalist setups. Almost all my herps are in pretty neat planted vivariums.



04/11/06  01:13am

 #734896


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 734031


 High Humidity

Well, I guess the three questions will still go unanswered. I tried.



Quote:

monkyboy you mean to tell me you can fry an egg on the street and have never seen a snake bask on the street. my buddy went to arizona and said they were all over the streets. the proof is in the pudding. nature has no problem doing it right.



I don’t quite know exactly where You are trying to go when You talk about domestic North American snakes on streets in Arizona. I was under the impression that we were talking Boa Constrictors here. I’ve observed many snakes soaking up the heat of roadways in the evenings, once the sun is no longer bearing down upon them here. This is what I said.

Quote:

Also You defend Your temperatures by saying well let Me take My temp gun out and measure some surface temperatures I find outside. I can fry an egg on a sewer drain cover here in New Orleans in the summertime, that does not mean that this is a surface that I’d likely find a Boa Constrictor basking upon, or rather frying on..



Quote:

monkyboy please give me some people you respect in raising snakes and i will ask them about their enclosures and obesity.


Quote:

i already spoke to the one you mentioned jeff ronne. i was not happy to speak with him.



Well, I am not Jeff’s biggest fan either. He inbreeds like crazy, and I don’t support that. There are other issues I have, but I will save those for another thread. I mentioned a lesson he learned about overfeeding Boa Constrictors to rush them to maturity. None of these overfed Boas lived over 5 years. This is what I was trying to cite as proof of the danger of pushing Boa Constrictors in to rapid growth by way of overfeeding. Nothing more.

A breeder who I really respect is Gus Renfro of Rio Bravo Reptiles. Do I know where exactly He would stand on these issues? No. Quite frankly You are the first person I’ve really explored many of these issues with. Most everybody I respect in Boa Constrictors, tends to care for their Boas using the most widely accepted care guidelines available, for the most part. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, I like the large naturalistic enclosures You use. I just disagree with some of Your husbandry advice, especially to novice keepers. We disagree on a few care guidelines, mainly feeding, temperature tolerances, and growing speed. These issues are only debated by Me because, I am aware that these are potential health issues that can cause early death in Boa Constrictors. So says conventional wisdom, if You will.

Many of the people I respect in snakes are Rosy Boa enthusiasts, but, in an effort to stay on track and stay specific to Boa Constrictors, I’ll leave them out of this one.



04/11/06  02:15am

 #735197


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 734896


 High Humidity

these questions have been answered but i will answer them again.

Quote:

What Boa Constrictor in the wild is given the opportunity to feed daily, or once a week for that matter?



there are plenty of boas that find regular food sources/ pythons also. i saw a retic hang out looking for monkeys once the monkys realized it was there it got up to find different food. it did not hang around hungry. plenty boas and other constrictors raid farms and get an abundant supply of food. they tend to hang out untill a food source is gone or take food that comes by. but they actively hunt and climb trees after prey. they feed themselves and don’t stop looking untill they are full. remember when i brought up the python eating many bats or 1 pig. they hunt when hungry plain and simple.

Quote:

What Boa Constrictor in the wild is exposed to a surface in excess of 700 degrees, as is Your exposed CHE inside of Your enclosure?

my boa is never on this surface. and all reptiles have a highly developed nervous system. if something hurts they tend to leave it alone. that is why many snakes take easy prey not ones that can fight back well. no snake wants to hurt itself. first rule of the reptile brain is self preservation. as the snake fills out and staying asway from the light is harder i will box it off. as of the last 4 years no exposed lights have been a problem. giving them hot spots in the cage keeps them from exploring heat sources to warm their belly.


Quote:

Why would You want to grow a Boa Constrictor quicker than it would grow in nature, especially when it has been proven to drastically shorten the lifespan of the snake when overfed?

it is only proven to shorten life spans buy the idiots you mention. jody and other i know of don’t put them on scheduals and have never had a problem. if you want to ask some people here is a few. jungleshadows.com. (jody) jim nesci cold bloodedcreatures.com. the philedelphia zoo. lou daddano serpant safari(who has kept an obese burm for 27 years and it is currently the worlds heaviest snake.) mine is 4 years now i guess in two years i will have to show more pics. she is as healthy as can be. so again who else have you talked to and what kind of cages were they in? you don’t want to get in a cage show off because your cages and the people you support are breeders and want many snakes in minnimum enclosures.

i hope that covers everything.

theherpking i am very interested in what zoo your dad works at and the enclosures/ temps and feeding scheduals. i bet you will find feeding scheduals are to keep the animal maintnance easy to remember and fulfill, not for fear of obesity.



04/11/06  01:16pm

 #735495


Razeraze
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  Message To: Munkyboy   In reference to Message Id: 734896


 High Humidity

monkyboy i spoke with Gus Renfro of Rio Bravo Reptiles and two things he said really caught my attention

Quote:

The behavior of Boa changes from foraging as juveniles to ambush predators as adults. Supplying caging with oversized dimensions serves the keeper (or their expectations) more than it does a Boa as they tend to use a smaller percentage of their environment as they age

this i have seen the complete opposite in my snake. and many snakes at zoos. not to mention all the pics i posted previously with large boas in trees. in reptiles magazine march 2006 pg 6 you will see a good size boa in a huge cage on top of a shelf.

the other thing he said was

Quote:

Experienced observers of mature boa, even breeders, have noted an actual preference by the animals to feed seasonally.. Yet they are healthy and give good litters. In many cases even better results than if they are fed all year long according to some schedule.

this one i couldn’t agree with more. my boas goes plenty of time between feedings because she chooses to.



04/11/06  04:50pm

 #736015


Munkyboy
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  Message To: Razeraze   In reference to Message Id: 735197


 High Humidity

Heh! I really don’t feel as if You’ve really answered the questions to My satisfaction, but, rather danced around them, and threw in Pythons, a random picture You may have seen that does not accurately portray this animals overall behavior etc.etc. etc.. I’m sure the majority of Your Boas life is spent loafing curled up in a cooler location hide area of Your enclosure. Sure, You can take some snap shots of it going back and forth from the heat source at the top of Your enclosure, and say, You see they do utilize the whole cage. My picture is evidence of that.
Why is it climbing up there? Is it exercising? Looking for food? Or rather, Is it more likely that it is going up there because that is where the heat is? I rather think most of the time it is going up there to thermoregulate to it’s preferred temperature. If the warm area of Your enclosure was somewhere else in Your enclosure, I think You’d likely observe more trips to that different location, and less climbing to the top. You see, I believe that as Boa Constrictors reach a rather heavy adult size and weight, such as Ours that are in excess of 20+ pounds, they generally do a whole lot less climbing due to the adverse pressure of their own weight on their ribs and the underlying skin and organs. That is not to say that this applies to every Boa Constrictor, or all the time, as there are exceptions. The simple fact is that Boa Constrictors are semi aboreal when young, and terrestrial when mature. I didn’t make that up, that is the scientific classification of these animals. They are largely ambush ground predators and spend most of thier time with thier bellies on the ground as adults.I just don’t buy the whole theory that they climb just to climb, as this starts to likely get uncomfortable as they become heavyweights. But, Hey! If You would rather keep large naturalistic enclosures, Great! Like I said I like them, and I really enjoy seeing the pictures of them. The thing is, that I must argue the points mentioned above only because You try to belittle Myself and others because We may choose not to do things the same way. Our methods work quite well with enclosures that are smaller, if set up correctly. We don’t deserve to be belittled as cruel punishers of herps, because Our methods are different while We are keeping extremely healthy animals with these methods, with respect to enclosure size. You see, all of My enclosures have perfect humidity levels, thermogradients, adequate hides, a bit of room to stretch out if the snake decides to do so etc., etc., etc.. I believe that Your large enclosures and My smaller ones with perfect conditions are both good choices, just so long as the conditions are perfect.

So, what do I answer this with?

Quote:

so again who else have you talked to and what kind of cages were they in? you don’t want to get in a cage show off because your cages and the people you support are breeders and want many snakes in minimum enclosures.




Well, I see that as more antagonism, and as I’ve said before, I’m not going to turn this thread into some dog and pony show where You can just take pot shots at Me because You believe Our caging choices are inadequate. Is that what You really want from Me? Or is this how You choose to get back at Me because I make a good point now and then, and this is a good diversion away from it? Well if so, I’m flattered, but, I won’t play those games. I’d rather have a healthy debate on the merits of the topics at hand.



04/11/06  09:15pm
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