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Bozzee View Profile |
High Humidity
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| 03/16/06 03:46pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Bozzee In reference to Message Id: 695379 High Humidity
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| 03/16/06 03:53pm |
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Bozzee View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 695394 High Humidity
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| 03/16/06 04:15pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Bozzee In reference to Message Id: 695433 High Humidity
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| 03/16/06 04:27pm |
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Bozzee View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 695467 High Humidity
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| 03/16/06 04:45pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Bozzee In reference to Message Id: 695493 High Humidity
in south africa i don’t know what to tell you. you could own a native species they should be used to it. good luck finding an answer. maybe some dry ice in the room to help take the water out of the air. |
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| 03/16/06 05:01pm |
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Coheed and cambria View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 695519 High Humidity
chris |
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| 03/16/06 06:24pm |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Coheed and cambria In reference to Message Id: 695634 High Humidity
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| 03/17/06 01:17am |
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Bozzee View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 696479 High Humidity
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| 03/17/06 02:27am |
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Coheed and cambria View Profile |
Message To: Bozzee In reference to Message Id: 696539 High Humidity
chris |
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| 03/17/06 04:37pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 696479 High Humidity
mine has a huge water bowl and humidity or respiratory diseases is not a problem. i am sure in the wild they do not come across small pathetic puddles. if the bowl effects your humidity that much you need a bigger cage where humidity can escape. or you can keep them in a small jail like facility with a small water dish so they can’t soak if they need/want to. you should not think minimum with a snake. minimum water/ minimum height/minimum natural environment. i think nature and huge zoo enclosure when i build for my animals. they deserve it. that is why i don’t breed i don’t have the room for 6 400+ gallon cages. |
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| 03/18/06 02:42pm |
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Bozzee View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 698157 High Humidity
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| 03/20/06 02:57am |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 698157 High Humidity
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| 03/20/06 08:56am |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 700812 High Humidity
it is going to be nearly impossible for this person to reduce humidity if the outside air is very humid. i think we should all think outside the box. hence my veiw on 110 basking spots. on one post you try to think outside the breeders you so bravely defend in another post. i am glad you are here helping. what it comes down to is the cage will always be as humid or more humid than the surronding room. never less unless it has a dehumidfier/ dry ice/ air conditioner or a substrate that sucks out humidity. |
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| 03/21/06 01:05am |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 702237 High Humidity
I live in New Orleans La., the relative humidity here in the summer time is often 100%, it is sometimes close to 0% at times in the winter. That said, it does take some thinking out of the box to provide the best conditions in a captive environment here. The small water bowl is one of those adjustments, but don’t worry, I let ’em out of jail to soak in My bathtub about once a week. In reality, a Boa Constrictor typically soaks for a reason. They will soak for some relief from extreme temperatures, to feel more secure if enough hides are not available, to drown mites, fleas, or ticks, to aid with defecation if constipated due to low humidity, dehydration, or substrate impaction, to loosen skin for a shed if humidity is too low, etc. etc. etc. None of these issues exist in My enclosures, but I’ll give ’em a soak once a week anyway. Some of them seem to really enjoy it and some really don’t seem to like it much at all. |
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| 03/21/06 09:35pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 703568 High Humidity
i do agree some beginners need a cut and dry cookie cut answer. i just wish some of the beginers would research the animal themselves and find out more about it’s natural habbitat. i hope you realize after losing two monitors by setting up puppymill way i changed my monitor and snake set up to match the wild the best i could. that is why i try to push newbies and experianced keepers like your self to look into the nature of the reptile what ever it is. realize branches and greenery cause brain stimulation and a more active snake. giving an animal the option to climb when it wants/soak when it wants and bask at a gradient of temps can only help the animal’s life. now if you don’t give them proper space and keep a temp at 110F you will dehydrate and kill your snake. this again is why i say my set ups and cages are not for everyone. i lost 44.5 sq feet(my entire dinning room) to my water monitor. the worst part is her next enclosure will have to be bigger. i see people breed and keep them in much smaller enclosures with lower basking temps. i don’t feel that is fair to the animal. |
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| 03/22/06 02:38am |
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Bozzee View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 703892 High Humidity
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| 03/22/06 05:20am |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Bozzee In reference to Message Id: 703914 High Humidity
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| 04/07/06 02:06am |
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Kias Mom View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 728549 High Humidity
Patty |
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| 04/07/06 02:36am |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Kias Mom In reference to Message Id: 728562 High Humidity
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| 04/07/06 10:11am |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 728777 High Humidity
after treating my monitors like this i could not treat my boa any less. i know boas are not very smart but i am sure they would be more active and enjoy their lives better if they were given cages like this. but doing this is expensive and space consuming. how ever i am only happy if my animals have wonderful cages to explore. a wonderful reptile keeper once wrote me this when i was frusterated here. Quote: Tell them to go outside and use their temp gun to check the surface temps. In the sahde of course those temps will be cooler, but in the sun you’ll find things are heated up. From the ground to rocks to tree branches.
Snakes may not seek out as high of temps as a monitor they do indeed utilize temps. If they ddin’t they would not be able to digest large meals. I have dealt with many snake people and the belief of not giving them temp choices. They want to dial in 80’s and stick with it. That is why it takes them 2-3 years to grow them to maturity. Also the fact they feed once a week etc. if they fed daily they would realize the temps are not working. They would indeed then have to give more temperature choices. In turn the snakes would grow much faster. well to each his own. this is my view and my fiance’s nothing more. |
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| 04/08/06 04:15pm |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 730761 High Humidity
Quote: try not to get personal or do shots to anyone. the problem with my advice is it goes against most care sheets(if not all) and most breeder set ups(if not all) how ever there are plenty of monitor keepers i know who keep boids and pythons in the same matter i do. they changed their minds to be more natural and more zoo habbitat/enclosre than breeder cage. take a look at these monitor cages and imagine how your snakes would be in them much like i did
Quote: I have dealt with many snake people and the belief of not giving them temp choices. They want to dial in 80’s and stick with it. That is why it takes them 2-3 years to grow them to maturity. Also the fact they feed once a week etc. if they fed daily they would realize the temps are not working. They would indeed then have to give more temperature choices. In turn the snakes would grow much faster.
The problem I have with Your philosophy, is that it is just that, a philosophy. Much of the advice You give is based on that philosophy, which is obviously guided by Your experience with monitors. There is no scientific proof to back that philosophy up. You gotta give Me more than that for Me to be convinced, if I am to throw away the conventional wisdom of tried and true experiences with the most experienced hands in the Boa Constrictor community today. Your friends advice clearly is bogus when it comes to Boa Constrictors, and is misdirected. He criticizes growing up Boa Constrictors for 2-3 Years to adulthood. He advocates feeding daily. That philosophy is against everything You say You stand for. You perpetuate this purist view of naturalistic environments and mimicking the wild conditions, yet You site this guys advice as being what shaped Your philosophy. Tell Us, What Boa Constrictor in the wild is given the opportunity to feed daily, or once a week for that matter? You do realize that they are largely ambush predators that have to hunt and hope that the prey gets close enough to them for a strike. This doesn’t happen as often as most of Us feed Our Boas. What Boa Constrictor in the wild is exposed to a surface in excess of 700 degrees, as is Your exposed CHE inside of Your enclosure? Why would You want to grow a Boa Constrictor quicker than it would grow in nature, especially when it has been proven to drastically shorten the lifespan of the snake when overfed? You see, there are good reasons why I challenge Your advice, and largely these questions have not been adequately addressed in My opinion. It seems to Me that You would rather chastise Me, and others, for having too small of an enclosure for Your choice, rather than validating Your own philosophy with real tried and true proof that conventional wisdom is wrong. Also You defend Your temperatures by saying well let Me take My temp gun out and measure some surface temperatures I find outside. I can fry an egg on a sewer drain cover here in New Orleans the summertime, that does not mean that this is a surface that I’d likely find a Boa Constrictor basking upon, or rather frying on.. I’m not trying to stir You up Guy, but just look at the attempt at respect that I tried to show You in the previous post in this thread, and look at Your response. I’ve got to say something to validate why I disagree at times with regards to Your husbandry advice. Well, so much for that. |
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| 04/09/06 03:03am |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 731640 High Humidity
monkyboy you mean to tell me you can fry an egg on the street and have never seen a snake bask on the street. my buddy went to arizona and said they were all over the streets. the proof is in the pudding. nature has no problem doing it right. if a snake is hungry it will eat or it will die. plain and simple. in fact many komodo dragons are dieing from starvation because their metabolisms are faster. just because a snake can go longer with out food than a monitor doesn’t mean it will over eat if given the chance. over eating is a health issue nothing more. it needs to be addressed as a health issue. an increase in excersize or a decrease in food is the only way to fix that. i just spoke with the reptile currator of the zoo which kept popye(oldest boa) they said they feed weekly and have never had a problem with obesity. but look at their caging. stop talking to breeders and start talking to zoos. many zoos try to mimic nature. |
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| 04/10/06 04:05pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 733851 High Humidity
monkyboy please give me some people you respect in raising snakes and i will ask them about their enclosures and obesity. |
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| 04/10/06 05:14pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 733998 High Humidity
puppy mill nothing more in my opinion. i will keep asking zoos and people with small collections but big enclosures. breeders do what is best for them nothing more. that is why zoos keep boas alive for 30-40 years and breeders don’t. |
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| 04/10/06 05:33pm |
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TheHerpKing View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 734031 High Humidity
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| 04/11/06 01:13am |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 734031 High Humidity
Quote: monkyboy you mean to tell me you can fry an egg on the street and have never seen a snake bask on the street. my buddy went to arizona and said they were all over the streets. the proof is in the pudding. nature has no problem doing it right.
I don’t quite know exactly where You are trying to go when You talk about domestic North American snakes on streets in Arizona. I was under the impression that we were talking Boa Constrictors here. I’ve observed many snakes soaking up the heat of roadways in the evenings, once the sun is no longer bearing down upon them here. This is what I said. Quote: Also You defend Your temperatures by saying well let Me take My temp gun out and measure some surface temperatures I find outside. I can fry an egg on a sewer drain cover here in New Orleans in the summertime, that does not mean that this is a surface that I’d likely find a Boa Constrictor basking upon, or rather frying on..
Quote: monkyboy please give me some people you respect in raising snakes and i will ask them about their enclosures and obesity.
Quote: i already spoke to the one you mentioned jeff ronne. i was not happy to speak with him.
Well, I am not Jeff’s biggest fan either. He inbreeds like crazy, and I don’t support that. There are other issues I have, but I will save those for another thread. I mentioned a lesson he learned about overfeeding Boa Constrictors to rush them to maturity. None of these overfed Boas lived over 5 years. This is what I was trying to cite as proof of the danger of pushing Boa Constrictors in to rapid growth by way of overfeeding. Nothing more. A breeder who I really respect is Gus Renfro of Rio Bravo Reptiles. Do I know where exactly He would stand on these issues? No. Quite frankly You are the first person I’ve really explored many of these issues with. Most everybody I respect in Boa Constrictors, tends to care for their Boas using the most widely accepted care guidelines available, for the most part. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, I like the large naturalistic enclosures You use. I just disagree with some of Your husbandry advice, especially to novice keepers. We disagree on a few care guidelines, mainly feeding, temperature tolerances, and growing speed. These issues are only debated by Me because, I am aware that these are potential health issues that can cause early death in Boa Constrictors. So says conventional wisdom, if You will. Many of the people I respect in snakes are Rosy Boa enthusiasts, but, in an effort to stay on track and stay specific to Boa Constrictors, I’ll leave them out of this one. |
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| 04/11/06 02:15am |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 734896 High Humidity
Quote: What Boa Constrictor in the wild is given the opportunity to feed daily, or once a week for that matter?
there are plenty of boas that find regular food sources/ pythons also. i saw a retic hang out looking for monkeys once the monkys realized it was there it got up to find different food. it did not hang around hungry. plenty boas and other constrictors raid farms and get an abundant supply of food. they tend to hang out untill a food source is gone or take food that comes by. but they actively hunt and climb trees after prey. they feed themselves and don’t stop looking untill they are full. remember when i brought up the python eating many bats or 1 pig. they hunt when hungry plain and simple. Quote: What Boa Constrictor in the wild is exposed to a surface in excess of 700 degrees, as is Your exposed CHE inside of Your enclosure? my boa is never on this surface. and all reptiles have a highly developed nervous system. if something hurts they tend to leave it alone. that is why many snakes take easy prey not ones that can fight back well. no snake wants to hurt itself. first rule of the reptile brain is self preservation. as the snake fills out and staying asway from the light is harder i will box it off. as of the last 4 years no exposed lights have been a problem. giving them hot spots in the cage keeps them from exploring heat sources to warm their belly.
Quote: Why would You want to grow a Boa Constrictor quicker than it would grow in nature, especially when it has been proven to drastically shorten the lifespan of the snake when overfed? it is only proven to shorten life spans buy the idiots you mention. jody and other i know of don’t put them on scheduals and have never had a problem. if you want to ask some people here is a few. jungleshadows.com. (jody) jim nesci cold bloodedcreatures.com. the philedelphia zoo. lou daddano serpant safari(who has kept an obese burm for 27 years and it is currently the worlds heaviest snake.) mine is 4 years now i guess in two years i will have to show more pics. she is as healthy as can be. so again who else have you talked to and what kind of cages were they in? you don’t want to get in a cage show off because your cages and the people you support are breeders and want many snakes in minnimum enclosures.
i hope that covers everything. theherpking i am very interested in what zoo your dad works at and the enclosures/ temps and feeding scheduals. i bet you will find feeding scheduals are to keep the animal maintnance easy to remember and fulfill, not for fear of obesity. |
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| 04/11/06 01:16pm |
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Razeraze View Profile |
Message To: Munkyboy In reference to Message Id: 734896 High Humidity
Quote: The behavior of Boa changes from foraging as juveniles to ambush predators as adults. Supplying caging with oversized dimensions serves the keeper (or their expectations) more than it does a Boa as they tend to use a smaller percentage of their environment as they age this i have seen the complete opposite in my snake. and many snakes at zoos. not to mention all the pics i posted previously with large boas in trees. in reptiles magazine march 2006 pg 6 you will see a good size boa in a huge cage on top of a shelf.
the other thing he said was Quote: Experienced observers of mature boa, even breeders, have noted an actual preference by the animals to feed seasonally.. Yet they are healthy and give good litters. In many cases even better results than if they are fed all year long according to some schedule. this one i couldn’t agree with more. my boas goes plenty of time between feedings because she chooses to. |
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| 04/11/06 04:50pm |
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Munkyboy View Profile |
Message To: Razeraze In reference to Message Id: 735197 High Humidity
Why is it climbing up there? Is it exercising? Looking for food? Or rather, Is it more likely that it is going up there because that is where the heat is? I rather think most of the time it is going up there to thermoregulate to it’s preferred temperature. If the warm area of Your enclosure was somewhere else in Your enclosure, I think You’d likely observe more trips to that different location, and less climbing to the top. You see, I believe that as Boa Constrictors reach a rather heavy adult size and weight, such as Ours that are in excess of 20+ pounds, they generally do a whole lot less climbing due to the adverse pressure of their own weight on their ribs and the underlying skin and organs. That is not to say that this applies to every Boa Constrictor, or all the time, as there are exceptions. The simple fact is that Boa Constrictors are semi aboreal when young, and terrestrial when mature. I didn’t make that up, that is the scientific classification of these animals. They are largely ambush ground predators and spend most of thier time with thier bellies on the ground as adults.I just don’t buy the whole theory that they climb just to climb, as this starts to likely get uncomfortable as they become heavyweights. But, Hey! If You would rather keep large naturalistic enclosures, Great! Like I said I like them, and I really enjoy seeing the pictures of them. The thing is, that I must argue the points mentioned above only because You try to belittle Myself and others because We may choose not to do things the same way. Our methods work quite well with enclosures that are smaller, if set up correctly. We don’t deserve to be belittled as cruel punishers of herps, because Our methods are different while We are keeping extremely healthy animals with these methods, with respect to enclosure size. You see, all of My enclosures have perfect humidity levels, thermogradients, adequate hides, a bit of room to stretch out if the snake decides to do so etc., etc., etc.. I believe that Your large enclosures and My smaller ones with perfect conditions are both good choices, just so long as the conditions are perfect. So, what do I answer this with? Quote: so again who else have you talked to and what kind of cages were they in? you don’t want to get in a cage show off because your cages and the people you support are breeders and want many snakes in minimum enclosures.
Well, I see that as more antagonism, and as I’ve said before, I’m not going to turn this thread into some dog and pony show where You can just take pot shots at Me because You believe Our caging choices are inadequate. Is that what You really want from Me? Or is this how You choose to get back at Me because I make a good point now and then, and this is a good diversion away from it? Well if so, I’m flattered, but, I won’t play those games. I’d rather have a healthy debate on the merits of the topics at hand. |
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| 04/11/06 09:15pm |
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