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 #1681213


TheBubu
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 New to Chameleons

Hi everyone! I’ve been thinking about getting a Jackson’s chameleon, I fell in love with one at the store where I work and I’m very interested in taking him home. I’ve never had a chameleon before, nor any kind of reptile for that matter. So please give me any and all information! :) And forgive my random questions lol.

The one I want is about 6 inches long, and I’m a little confused about how big of an enclosure he needs. And also, should they be fully screened, or have a solid side or two? Is reptile carpet okay, or is there something better that should be used for substrate? Should crickets be fed everyday, or is there something else that should be fed in addition? And also, what type of light should be used, wattage wise? And I’m assuming they need a UVB light, do they go by wattage and if so what one should I get?

Again sorry for my randomness, I’m sure there will be more questions to follow :) Thank you for any info!
03/29/08  08:33pm

 #1681543


LunaC
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   Message To: TheBubu   In reference to Message Id: 1681213


 New to Chameleons

Honestly, if you’ve never owned a reptile of any kind before, then a chameleon is definitely not the reptile to start with. Every other reptile I’ve ever owned is easier than my chameleons. From snakes to bearded dragons, to water dragons, to turtles, to many other different lizards. Chameleons are the most challenging, the most delicate and demanding. They’re only the easiest to kill.

Now, to answer your basic questions. Chams are arboreal, so screen (at least 2 sides) cages are generally considered suitable cages. Aquariums are not, unless the cham is under around 4 months old. Since Jackson’s are a montane (mountain) species, they require cooler temps than the more common tropical species (Veileds, Panthers).

If the cham you are looking at is only 6" (snout to tail or snout to vent?), it’s not going to require as large a cage as an adult. Smaller cages are recommended for young chams because it’s easier to regulate temperatures, regulate food intake, regulate humidity, etc.

Substrate? None. Chams are arboreal, they spend their time up at the top of their tall enclosures. They generally don’t venture to the bottom (unless they are sick, females looking for nesting sites, or just occasionally exploring). Due to the large amount of dripping water chameleons need for drinking, any type of substrate is just a conduit for mold, mildew, bacteria or fungus. Oh yes, chameleons do not generally drink from bowls. Living in trees, they derive their drinking water from rain or dew on leaves. Their drink instinct is stimulated by the sight of dripping water, sight being their only really strong sense.

They need UVB of course. Generally a 5.0% will suffice in most common 24" X 24" X 48" (tall) or
18" X 18" X 36" (tall) cages. They also need a basking area. Jackson’s require lower basking temps than other tropical chams, but instead of a particular wattage, you need to start with a low watt (40 - 60), actually measure the temperature and then either adjust the wattage or the distance between the bulb and the basking branch,vine,whatever in order to achieve the recommended basking temperature for your particular species. Jackson’s do best with basking temps in 80-88F range and 70-75F in the cooler parts of an encloser. No heat or light is necesary at night. No need to provide heat at night either.
They also need high humidity, more so than the tropical chams.

Please do further research on Jackson’s (and chameleons in general) at the link below before you actually make a purchase. You may decide a lower maintenance, less fragile and costly reptile is best for you, your lifestyle and your wallet.

You may also want to rethink buying a pet store chameleon. Most pet store chams are imports. That is, they are wild caught. WC have a notoriously high mortality rate, due to capture, housing with other chameleons, excessive rough handling, improper and inadequate diet, lack of proper drinking water, lack of proper humidity, transport and internal parasites. The stress alone from capture, holding, importation and further transport to a retailer alone can severely compromise a cham’s health.
If you really want one, check out reputable breeders online.


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03/29/08  11:29pm

 #1682002


TheBubu
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   Message To: LunaC   In reference to Message Id: 1681543


 New to Chameleons

Thanks for the info Luna :) The store I work at is actually very good, unlike others with the same name, and I take care of all the animals on a regular basis. He is captive bred, I know this for sure. I haven’t fully decided if I want him yet, I just wanted to know the in’s and out’s of taking care of him. I never buy an animal without researching it fully, so don’t worry about that :) The reason I want him is because I’ll be moving to a warmer state soon, in about a month, and I thought he would be better off there then the state I’m in now (Michigan). And because he’s adorable and I’ve always loved chameleons lol. ;)

Thank you again for the info, I appreciate it! How big do Jackson’s get, and what is a good size for an enclosure when he’s full grown? Oh and he’s about 6 inches when his tail is rolled up, so snout to vent. Hope that helps :)
03/30/08  01:19pm


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