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Bboy6 Gretchenellie Bboy6 Julirs Bboy6 Julirs SBD11 Julirs SBD11 LunaC SBD11 LunaC Bboy24 |
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Bboy6 View Profile |
My chameleon wont eat
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| 06/21/08 08:36pm |
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Gretchenellie View Profile |
Message To: Bboy6 In reference to Message Id: 1768910 My chameleon wont eat
tank size? temps? food items? handling ( if any at this point ) ? misting schedule ? lighting? etc, etc, etc |
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| 06/21/08 10:11pm |
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Bboy6 View Profile |
Message To: Gretchenellie In reference to Message Id: 1769070 My chameleon wont eat
i do handle her about once a day(maybe thats the problem i dont noe) i misted it like 4 or 5 times a day depending on if the environment if it looks dry and the humidity gauge says its under 40, and i have a a 75 watt basking light with a 24 watt coil bulb that is a repti glow 5.0 for the uva, i have all the requirements, that y i dont noe wat seems to be the problem. |
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| 06/22/08 02:14pm |
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Julirs View Profile |
Message To: Bboy6 In reference to Message Id: 1769607 My chameleon wont eat
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| 06/22/08 03:50pm |
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Bboy6 View Profile |
Message To: Julirs In reference to Message Id: 1769712 My chameleon wont eat
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| 06/22/08 04:44pm |
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Julirs View Profile |
Message To: Bboy6 In reference to Message Id: 1769769 My chameleon wont eat
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| 06/22/08 06:10pm |
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SBD11 View Profile |
Message To: Julirs In reference to Message Id: 1769850 My chameleon wont eat
I really don’t want to butt in but basking temps in the low 80’s will cause a multitude of problems. Impaction, eye problems, parasites, infections are all related to basking temps. In short, an under metabolized animal or an animal forced to use a single temp (no choices) won’t be able to fight off infections/parasites or pass chitinous objects. As an example, my last veiled had a basking spot that got to 130*. He used it daily. Thanks and good luck. |
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| 06/22/08 07:55pm |
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Julirs View Profile |
Message To: SBD11 In reference to Message Id: 1769960 My chameleon wont eat
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| 06/22/08 08:45pm |
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SBD11 View Profile |
Message To: Julirs In reference to Message Id: 1770019 My chameleon wont eat
Dehydration in fish tanks is a problem with all reptiles. A quick fix is to cover the screen top with aluminum foil, tape it down, then cut around the lights. Helps keep the humidity up and the cham hydrated by slowing the hot air and moisture leaving the tank. Hot air goes up, and with screen top tanks, it goes up quickly and continuously (taking the moisture with it). Good luck! |
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| 06/22/08 09:54pm |
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LunaC View Profile |
Message To: SBD11 In reference to Message Id: 1770098 SBD11
I keep Veileds, Panthers, a Meller’s and a Quadricornis. You probably know which are montane and which are not. Please reference a care sheet or a book, anywhere, that would recommend 115 degree basking temps for a baby Veiled or any other baby tropical or montane species. I personally feel it’s better to err on the cooler side than to bake my reptiles when they bask. They metabolize just fine (and have for years) with basking temps no higher than 98 F. for the tropicals, and 85 F. (tops) for my montanes. Naturally, it’s important to have a temperature varient in an enclosure, lower temps toward the bottom and opposite side of the basking area. Since the OP probably is a novice keeper it would probably be better for the new keeper (and utlimately the baby cham) not to get too technical with surface vs. air temps etc. A regular household bulb (40-60 watt) in a cheap clamp lamp placed in a corner will provide all the heat a baby needs. Naturally, the temperature will need to be measured at the basking spot below the lamp and either the wattage of the bulb or the distance between the branch/vine and the lamp above it adjusted to achieve recommended temperatures. I would also like to point out that basking temps in the low 80’s are perfectly fine and recommended for montane species such as Jacksons, Melleri, Quads, Senegals etc. What do you suppose would have happened long ago to my Melleri and Quad had I maintained basking temps in the 90’s, especially when they were babies? Lower basking temps do not necessarily lead to "a multitude of problems". "Impaction, eye problems, parasites, infections" can also be secondary to over and under supplementation, incorrect diet and poor gutload, unsanitary cages, standing water, burns, injury, poor acclimation, stress, lack of UVB, and on and on. I also have to respectfully disagree with "sealing" off a fish tank top with foil to keep humidity and heat in. Heat + humidity = URI, especially in young chams. They are arboreal. They need ventilation and a drying out period between mistings to prevent bacteria and fungus growth. A screen cage can indeed be modified on a couple sides with plastic wrap, cardboard or whatever to help keep humidity in, but a glass tank usually holds plenty of humidity, IMO. |
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| 06/23/08 08:11pm |
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SBD11 View Profile |
Message To: LunaC In reference to Message Id: 1771155 SBD11
I prefer to offer choices to my lizards and to let them decide what to use. They know what temps they need far better than we do. I worked with veileds and only veileds so I can’t speak for any other species. Veileds use high basking temps. Infections, parasites, impactions all stem from something, but an animal with a choice of basking temps can deal with the problems themselves. They are little tanks :) It isn’t 130 and only 130. Its room temp up to 130. They can use 80, 90, 112, 127, whatever they choose for whatever event they are doing (reproducing, digesting, growing, healing, etc..). I give them choices and let them do what they do. They’re the experts, not us :) Thanks! |
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| 06/23/08 09:13pm |
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LunaC View Profile |
Message To: SBD11 In reference to Message Id: 1771267 SBD11
You give them choices, yes. We, as experienced chameleon keepers, all do. That’s basic chameleon husbandry. That’s why I stated in my previous post that it’s important to have a temperature varient in an enclosure. Basking on one side or corner, cooler temps on the other side and further down toward the bottom of an enclosure. Again, that’s important, basic chameleon husbandry. The issue was that you recommended very high basking temperatures for a baby Veiled, 115 F degrees, and stated you provided a basking temp of 130 F for your last adult Veiled. Again, I ask please provide any book or care sheet that would recommend either basking or room temperatures of 115 F or 130 F for a Veiled chameleon. Honestly, I know of no breeder or knowledgeable hobbyist who would recommend those basking temps. If I’m wrong, I hope someone more knowlegeable than I would come forward and correct me. Quote: Infections, parasites, impactions all stem from something, but an animal with a choice of basking temps can deal with the problems themselves.
I don’t wish to come off rude or argumentative, but again, that’s a statement with absolutely no medical or scientific basis to back it. An animal with MBD due to improper UVB exposure or calcium deficiency will not "deal with the problem" itself regardless of temperatures. An animal suffering thermal burns (from too-high basking temps) and possible subsequent bacterial infection certainly won’t deal with the problems itself! An animal suffering impaction from substrate ingestion or a diet too high in chitin won’t automatically heal itself just by raising or lowering basking temps. I also don’t believe basking temperatures are a cure-all for a problematic parasitic overload. Perhaps I’m misunderstanding what you are saying ... |
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| 06/23/08 10:31pm |
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Bboy24 View Profile |
Message To: LunaC In reference to Message Id: 1771396 SBD11
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| 06/26/08 12:57pm |
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