Frilled Dragons - Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

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87rx7chick Dazzofdeath 87rx7chick Chippychop 87rx7chick 87rx7chick 87rx7chick 87rx7chick 87rx7chick 87rx7chick Doug2 Doug2 87rx7chick 87rx7chick Phil15 Kidmuathai Razaiel 87rx7chick 87rx7chick 87rx7chick

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#1938226

87rx7chick
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Sick or stuborn frill care sheet

follow this if your frill is acting sluggish wont eat or if he’s stressed and skittish:

frill dragons need to have a body temp of about 90-95 to be happy and digest food. temp in living space must not fall lower then 80 in most all of the enclosure. if frill dragon is skittish it will often hide instead of stay warm. if it has access to cooler areas and body temp is not 90-95 it will have issues. humidity needs to be high with cycles of dry to eliminate mold or any moldy wet smells. RI will not be a concern if these dry cycles are achieved.
if frill is to stressed and hides it needs a higher tank temp to not let body temp lower then 90. night time no lower then 80 with 85 being ideal.

with a healthy and happy frill. you can have lower temps of 75-80in areas of tank. frill should be able to cool off in these areas but issue lies with scared frills that shouldnt be able to reach these low temps in fear of body temp going to low. they wont go into basking light if they are to scared and thus body temp falls.

summary
75 at night in most cases is OK but its better to have 85. high high humidty is great with a few days to dry out and then again with the heavey misting.
body temp of 90-95 is ideal to healthy happy frill and digestion
baskingg area should be 100-105 with a nice gradient to cooler are of cage but no cooler then 80 is ideal 75 is ok. scared frills wont seak out warmth.

sick tank set up:
20L with uvb tube, 2 75 w spot lights and one 100 wat red light. right side one 75w basking directly on top screen. red light next to this (off durring day on durring night)
left side 75w basking suspended 2 inches from top screen

gradient: 105 right 100center and 95 on left.
night temp is 85-100
humidity is 55-90
he is eating like a pig.

this is for information only. to inform you that following wrong care sheets can be deadly for this extreamly sensitive type of dragon

i got this information from a breader i spent 90 min with on the phone. he has been doing frills for 5 years and has always had the warmest of warm temps on his frills with the best results.
also informed me to take a look at weather from northern australia

01/23/09 11:26pm

#1938582

Dazzofdeath
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1938226

Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

Great info!!!!! After a month of owning my Frilly he started to act this way. So I bumped the humidity up to like 85-90 for a day or two and used my spray bottle to give him tons of water. After a week he was in wonderful shape and has been ever since. My Frilly also had mite problems so that didn’t help much.Curtis!

01/24/09 03:10pm

#1947019

87rx7chick
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Message To: Dazzofdeath In reference to Message Id: 1938582

Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

i would like to update that i am using a new encosure

exotera front opening aborial tank

18x18x24
on top: 75w basking uva bulb. 18’’ uvb 10 tube. 100w red lamp. on a cycle of 14 hours on. red lamp stays on at night with 2 small under tank heaters. towel 4 times folded over on top to keep humidity levels up. unter tank heater warmth should not be noticable when you place your hand above it hence why towel is folded 4 times over

temps:
day time : 85-90 at bottom of tank hot 110 top most basking spot(not used) middle basking spot 105 used
night time 85
humidity: 80% or up durring most the day. dry days of 40% cycle 2 days wet one full day drier then 40%

time cycle: 7am-930pm

oh yes and the front is always coverd except for feeding time.

02/04/09 09:16pm

#1947439

Chippychop
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1947019

Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

wow what fat frilly!!!! ha ha looks great I love your enclosure and way to go with the info right on the money!CHIP!

02/05/09 02:04pm

#1949982

87rx7chick
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Message To: Chippychop In reference to Message Id: 1947439

Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

could you beleive that people were bashing me saying that the tempitures that i posted were to high and i was baking my frilly?
same reason my frill was so ill when i first got him. no one realizes how warm these guys have to be. expecialy if they dont seek out heat!
:( i got banned from that site for trying to defend my own....

02/09/09 04:41pm

#1959823

87rx7chick
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1949982

Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

bump for a member

02/26/09 07:33pm

#1966721

87rx7chick
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1959823

Sick or stubborn frill care sheet

bump

03/11/09 12:58pm

#1968061

87rx7chick
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1966721

Compact florecent information

compact florecent bulbs have been talked about for a while now, i would just like to touch on this briefly

the way the rays come out of a compact florecent bulb is far to concentrated and can be damaging to eyes and skin if exposed in just the right way. hence why some people have problems and some do not

there is also an issue with florecent fixtures with reflective backing behind the bulb, this to can cause akward reflections and rays of the uvb light.

if you notice any of these symptoms please change the uvb compact to a tube uvb, or if you have a tube uvb bulb please remove the reflector from it (this is not often an issue but can be in right conditions)

SYMPTOMS:

seemingly depressed
puffy eyes
sleeping alot (eyes closed)
lethargic
blisters/ filled pockets on skin
unwilling to eat
unwilling to drink
very inactive

these symptoms may be caused by uvb, if you have any doubts please seek VET for proper diagnosis and treatment.

this post is just to inform so people can catch it early and change the light before serious symptoms occure

once light is fixed recovery will be instant if not only 2-3 days full recovery!!! durring this time keep them hydrated and warm (no less then 80 at night and no less then 85 durring day if not more!)

03/13/09 08:13pm

#1974871

87rx7chick
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1968061

Imported/farm raised

if you are getting it online ask if it is imported/farm raised, if so then be ready to take on internal parasites and mites and missing toes and such....

if it is imported, the first thing you should so is fold back frills and check for mites, if it has mites DONT PUT IT INSIDE ENCLOSURE!!!, leave it inside packing container and go get a mite treatment and ONLY apply it with a dampend cotten ball and use a qtip to remove mites dont get it in mouth or on vent because this could make it sick!!!
if you have to do mite treatment change water out of enclosure 3 times a day because the mite treatment could get into water and into mouth and make him sick =X

food? well super worms are the easiest to feed to stressed frills but if it hasnt eaten in a while it could cause the poor frill to vomit cuz of the hard exoskeleton. supers are high in fat and shouldnt be fed as a base for a diet

crickets are great, i feed mine out of a tall deli cup and tilt it twards the frill and as they almost fall out of the cup the frill eats it ! chop!

if your frill does not eat for the first few days its ok... but make sure its not weak and its well hydrated

if it hasnt eaten in 3-4 days and is looking weak and not hydrated, first things first is to give it a soak in the tub. fill it up with warm to the touch (never hot) water and let it be alone for 15-20 min, it will absorb water threw the vent and maybe even drink

if it hasnt eanten by day 5 and is weak, you need to be force feeding "jump start" or flukers repti-aid
repti aid is great, its a powder that you mix with water, its a diet supliment for rehydrating and nurishing reptiles that wont eat and need nurishment. it comes with stur spoon and seringe for force feeding.

after a week if it still hasnt turned around and you followed the sick or stuborn care sheet you NEED to make a vet apointment and bring in freash poop and have it checked for internal parasites, i say this as the last step because the medicen to be given is sometimes stressfull and could make the frill sick, so you should try to nurish it and let it eat on its own first and get it up to health before you try and rule out parasites!!!

i only write this because i went threw trouble with my imported frill, who is now doing great. i hope you h ave luck with yours and i hope this information helps.

keeping handleing to a minimum is best.

03/26/09 02:23am

#2021075

87rx7chick
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1974871

Imported/farm raised

bump for new owner

06/12/09 04:31pm

#2023684

Doug2
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 2021075

Imported/farm raised

I think the temps should be low at night like no heating at all. The reason for turning off lights and heat at night is to allow their body to close properly for the night and with the temp at 80 the frills stomach will always be active and not allow the frills body to close or have proper photo-period. In New Guinea or even Australia the temps at night would be 72 at the most.

06/17/09 12:06am

#2023786

Doug2
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Message To: Doug2 In reference to Message Id: 2023684

Imported/farm raised

I apologize that would only apply to healthy frills but I agree with you that sick or stressed frills should be kept at about 80.

Sorry:p

06/17/09 07:59am

#2024271

87rx7chick
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Message To: Doug2 In reference to Message Id: 2023786

Imported/farm raised

you make a very good point though. i never thought about this!

yes on a healthy frill temps should fall low 70’s :)

please feel free to correct any of the information above.

06/17/09 09:58pm

#2033937

87rx7chick
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 2024271

Imported/farm raised

bump

07/04/09 03:52pm

#2034126

Phil15
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Message To: 87rx7chick In reference to Message Id: 1938226

Sick or stuborn frill care sheet

Thanks.

07/04/09 11:29pm

#2035225

Kidmuathai
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Message To: Phil15 In reference to Message Id: 2034126

Sick or stuborn frill care sheet

this is an important post i think.
so Bumping it

07/06/09 09:25pm

#2046218

Razaiel
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Message To: Kidmuathai In reference to Message Id: 2035225

Sick or stuborn frill care sheet

Great post! I was looking for a frilly forum as we are taking on a frill that is currently a bit disabled due to the fact that she was being abused by her male partner. She is at the reptile store my daughter works at and we took her to the vet and xrays show she has a fractured pelvis and fractured leg (vet says it will heal) plus her bones seem a bit less dense than they should be (lack of UVB in early days I guess). Not only that but she’d ingested some vermiculite that she was given to lay eggs in (poor little thing shouldn’t have been breeding - she’s only 18 months old). The vermiculite had been building up in her throat and was removed piece by piece.

We really thought she wouldn’t make it and vet would advise for her to be PTS but after keeping her for a few days and giving her shots of calcium and stuff she was released back to the store where my daughter and one of her colleagues gave her a lot of tender loving care and reptiboost. She is now a much livelier lizard and my daughter of course has fallen in love with her so she’ll be coming to us as they cannot sell her.

She still has a way to go before a complete recovery. As her movement should be limited at the moment for her own safety we will put her in a standard 4x2x2 and hopefully when/if she can climb and about more safely and without danger to herself will make her a taller one.

07/27/09 05:48pm