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ConnieG   87rx7chick   ConnieG   87rx7chick   ConnieG   87rx7chick   ConnieG   ConnieG   87rx7chick   ConnieG   87rx7chick  
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 My first frill-couple of questions

I have had a bearded dragon for a while now, and just got my first frilled. I know their feeding and lighting requirements are similar to beardies, but I have a question about the enclosure. I have my beardie on ceramic tile since it seems easier to keep the enclosure clean and doesn’t cause the problems sand does. Can it also be used in the frill enclosure?

The person I got the frill from has some sort of mulch in the tank, as well as several flat river rocks and branches for climbing. He also put in a lot of crickets and just leaves them all in their for days until the frill eats them all. I don’t do this with my beardie, I only give her enough crickets for a feeding and don’t leave any in the tank. Thoughts on this?

Should I keep using the much type stuff instead of going to ceramic tile like I have for my bearde, and if so, how do I clean the tank?

10/11/09  01:34pm


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  Message To: ConnieG   In reference to Message Id: 2082775

 My first frill-couple of questions

first no no is the crickets. crickets tend to bite and chew on a sleeping reptile. what i do is bring my frill dragons to a 20 gallon tank that has crickets in it. and let the frills eat from the smaller tank. then remove them and put them back into there large home.

i use coconut husk substrate, its fine enough to not risk impaction, easy enough to sift out poop, and it can hold water for a few days when saturated properly.

you need ALOT of climbing branches. and one vertical/diagonal branch leading up to the basking spot. these guys love to be vertical and diagonal. in the wild they cling to trees all day long.

heat should be about 85 ambient with cool areas of about 75-80 (only if the frill dragon is not stressed and is eating well) but the whole enclosure should mainly be warm 85. the humidity should never fall under 35%, they have such thin delicate skin, i keep my humidity at 65% with days of less humidity to let the enclosure dry out to reduce mildew and mold and musky smells. once its completely dry i then saturate everything and then let it slowly dry out once again.

you souldnt house your frilly on ceramic tile. they are quick moving and jump and they’ll just slip and slide around. bearded dragons are slow and just loaf around. frills love to dash from side to side, jump, climb and jump from branch to branch.

my enclosure right now is 4 feet long by 2 feet deep and 3 feet tall. this is an ideal area because its easy to keep warm. anything larger may be harder and harder to keep warm and require more lighting to do so.

you also want to include in the enclosure a large water dish, deep enough to come up to their sholders and big enough so they can hop into and splash around in. if he is using the water correctly you’ll see him pooping in it and see it very dirty. thats a good thing!!!

please scroll down in this section and read my "sick and suborn frill dragon" post. it has some good information in there.

10/11/09  01:57pm


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  Message To: 87rx7chick   In reference to Message Id: 2082783

 My first frill-couple of questions

Thanks, I will try and get all the crickets out of there. I think the ones he put in there are too big anyway, they are full sized and I don’t even feed those to my beardie who is a sub adult. He told me this frill is about 5 months old and he or she is not very big. The crickets are almost the size of the frill’s head!

I am also going to remove some of the river rocks that are in the tank. They are pretty large, but I think will just get in the way. There is one good climbing apparatus, but I will get a few more.

As far as cleaning the substrate, do I just scoop up any fecal material I see, and if so is it necessary to do an entire tank cleaning (as in replace all the substrate) periodically?

Just discovered the light fixture the guy gave me doesn’t work (imagine that) It’s a small fixture with a flouescent tube, but I have a feeling it’s not correct either. There is a plastic shield over the tube. I recently replace my beardies repti sun 10 tube light with a mercury vapor, so I’ll use the repti sun on the frill cage for now until I can get a second mercury vapor

10/11/09  02:50pm


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  Message To: ConnieG   In reference to Message Id: 2082801

 My first frill-couple of questions

:) walmart sells 24 inch t8 fluro tubes for 8$. remove the plastic clear sheild and throw it out. replace the t8 bulb with the 24(or 18 inch) repti-sun uvb 10 bulb, is this bulb going to be ontop of a screen? if so... good. cuz uvb 10 is strong and the screen would be blocking 50% of the rays. if its mounted inside and is not filterd by a screen then you need to make sure its further away or a lesser uvb rating ^_^ cool hu?!

5 months old. oh how cute!!!!
3/4 inch crickets should be OK. 1/2 inch would be best.
i usto feed my lil girl 3/4 cuz the smaller crickets were a pain for her to chase and catch. she had no issue eating them.

make sure you dust your crickets with that calcium powder too... and make sure you use that flukers cricket food (The powder) for your crickets. and toss in 1/4 of an apple or something to keep them hydrated. feeding starving crickets is no good. gut loading is easy and has alot of benifits..

what i do is i buy zoo med bearded dragon food pellets. and put them into a dish and add water to saturate the pellets. that way the crickets get gut loaded AND hydrated !!!!!

be sure to ask as many questions as your heart desires... we’re here to help!!!

last lil pointer.... a frill dragon should have a body temp of 95 or so... if your frill isnt basking. if he’s dark in coloration and is on the ground or is on a branch or somthing with its head really low. thats signs of stress and somethings wrong. make sure the lil guy stays warm if you see this

10/11/09  11:08pm


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  Message To: 87rx7chick   In reference to Message Id: 2082961

 My first frill-couple of questions

Thank you so much for the info. I order cricket and super worms in bulk for my beardie, so I always have an ample supply. I just got in an order of 500 crickets and 250 superworms. I already use the calcium and vitamin powders for the beardie. I have a dry cricket food and gel crystals to keep them hydrated and gut loaded, and sometimes I toss in some of the veggies I feed my beardie like collard or turnip greens. I also toss in small carrots or pieces of potato for both the crickets and worms.

The frilled is a bit dark in color, but is very active and darts around all over the place. He does get on the upper part of the branch to bask. I have a basking light in addition to the Repti sun 10 (both are on top of the screen cover). My son put in a water dish and the dragon was splashing around all over the place.

I have not tried to feed it yet (just brought it home yesterday) but left some very chopped up collards and turnip greens in a dish with it this morning. I will try a few small crickets when I get home. I have an empty plastic tote that I will try to use for feeding the crickets so I don’t have to catch any in the dragon’s enclosure. I know he or she may not eat well due to relocation stress.

As far as keeping the humdity up, what is the best way to achieve this? Is using a spray bottle to spray the substrate enough, or should I do something else? And are silk plants and vines ok to use for climbing? I’d like to add a bit of color to the enclosure.

10/12/09  01:34pm


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  Message To: ConnieG   In reference to Message Id: 2083080

 My first frill-couple of questions

silk plants are great for them. go to your local hoby store but just make sure you rinse them off well before you let them climb all over them their might be oils in from the production of them.

sometimes if i take my frill out and it freaks out. and i place it into the 20 gallon to eat. they wont eat cuz i just stressed them out. other times they turn into little piggies.

do you mind holding crickets? if not you should try hand feeding . just wiggle something infront of him and see if he goes for it. if not then at least you tried.

humidity is a toughy sometimes. what is your avarage home humidity? mine is 45% today.

cork sheets from hobby stores works great. you can buy the thin roll for 12$ and get alot of it but its thin. or you can buy the 12x12 squares and spend more money.

if your going to use cork to line the glass remember super worms will bore into cork bark and turn into beetles. you’ll see cork shavings and holes all over the place! noooooo!!!!!!

another trick is to cover up all but 1/3 of the top of the enclosure. using foil works good to keep humidity in ontop of screen. or plexi glass. but remember plexi wont allow uvb threw. but you can place a fluro ontop for added lighting..

see where i am going with this :)

your frill seems to be doing fine. activity is a good sign that your frill isnt horribly stressed and shutting down. thats not a good thing!!!!


10/12/09  04:55pm


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  Message To: 87rx7chick   In reference to Message Id: 2083150

 My first frill-couple of questions

Don’t mind holding crickets at all. When I got home from work, I found him (I looked and I think it’s a he, two lumps and a bit of a depression in between the lumps) in the water dish. Humidity in the tank is 65% per the digital thermometer I have in the bottom of the tank

I tried to offer him a cricket, but no go, so I tried a superworm and no go on that either. I think I’ll leave a couple of crickets in there until I go to bed and see if he eats any.

OH, one more thing - sorry for all the questions - do I need to change out the substrate periodically or just scoop up the poop when I see it? I hate to admit, I don’t know what Frill poop looks like!

10/12/09  07:23pm


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  Message To: ConnieG   In reference to Message Id: 2083203

 My first frill-couple of questions

I just put in a few crickets dusted with calcium and he ate them! He ate about 7 pretty good sized ones!

10/12/09  07:37pm


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  Message To: ConnieG   In reference to Message Id: 2083208

 My first frill-couple of questions

good to hear he ate!

substrate should be changed out often. if you use coconut husk i found that i only have to change it 1-3 months. i know i know this sounds wierd but, my frills poop in their water, and when they dont, they poop in easy to scoop areas.

i never have issue with bad smell or mold because i let stuff dry out. but when you start smelling the hint of poopies. its time to change that!!! coconut husk or eco earth. the brick that you soak. very fine coconut husk. thats my fav :)

questions are a good thing. keep em coming!

10/13/09  12:46am


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  Message To: 87rx7chick   In reference to Message Id: 2083328

 My first frill-couple of questions

Hey 87rx7 - I just saw on your profile that you are in Texas. So am I! What part? I’m just south of Austin, and actually operate a ferret shelter.

I need to get some subsrate, I am pretty sure the guy I got him from told me it was coconut mulch. I actually want to switch tanks with my beardie. The beardie’s tank is long, narrow and a bit taller than the tank that came with my frilled. But I will wait a couple of weeks before I do the switch.

10/13/09  01:35pm


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  Message To: ConnieG   In reference to Message Id: 2083433

 My first frill-couple of questions

connie i’m in the north west part of san antonio.. :)

oh and i thought i’d let you know since your close. i am re-homing one of my male frills, theres been a lil bit of stress between the 2 males so i think its best to give one of them a new home.


re homing is 100$ only cuz i bought him for 170$ from alamo aquatic 4 months ago and she turned to a he about 3 months ago =X

well glad to hear your close to me!! btw are you on south texas reptile forum?... they arnt really helpfull there @_@..... they are kind of absent when it comes to problems and acclimation. i am glad you posted here for help!!! lots of knowledge on this forum

10/13/09  04:00pm

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