Your Reptile and Amphibian Resource and Information Site

Back to Gecoks-Fat-Tailed Forum   Forums   Home   Members Area  

Gecoks-Fat-Tailed Forum

Sovereigngale   Smurfzilla   Sovereigngale   Smurfzilla   Sovereigngale   AllHailRain   Smurfzilla  
 Member  Message

 #1723214


Sovereigngale
View Profile

 Something seriously wrong??

The AFT at my school (we have a Zoology club) doesn’t seem to eat, and ’hiccups’ every once in a while. We figured this might be due to stress because she’s held quite a bit, but today she’s been opening her mouth wide. A friend of mine looked this up and some site said that this was a respiratory problem, but I’m not sure.

She’s got a UVB bulb on all the time (Biology teacher who’s the advisor for the club says they’ll set their own sleep regimin) that also heats her cage, and there’s a vented area on the otherside to be cool. She has a coconut hide, a log hide, and fresh water. Her substrate has always been sand without problems (although we are aware of the risks). She’s provided with crickets and superworms Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, but it really doesn’t seem like she eats (dead insects are found throughout the terrarium).

We can’t afford a vet trip, I’m afraid...
05/02/08  02:08pm

 #1723571


Smurfzilla
View Profile



   Message To: Sovereigngale   In reference to Message Id: 1723214


 Something seriously wrong??

sounds like a respiratory infection to me caused by bad husbandry.. what are the tank temps?.. best thing would be a vet visit.. but if thats out of the question i recommend keeping the warm side of the tank around 88-92 and cool side only down to around 80-82. a uvb light isnt needed and may cause a d3 overload since theyre nocturnal and its never turned off.. or it could be screwing with her cycles since the light is never turned off.. ive found undertank heaters are the easiest way to heat them with just a standard light above them for light.
sand should NOT be used with afts. They need high humidity.. this is probably whats causing her to be ill. switch to unfertilized potting soil or coconut fiber (its sold in a compressed brick).. keep her humidity above 60% at the lowest.
dead crickets/superworms should be removed on a regular basis.. dead anything left in a tank is unsanitary.
check out the aft care sheets on here, read some of the posts, and another good site for info is crestedgecko.com.
good luck!
05/02/08  08:13pm

 #1723623


Sovereigngale
View Profile



   Message To: Smurfzilla   In reference to Message Id: 1723571


 Something seriously wrong??

Thanks, I’ll talk to my adviser about switching the substrate, and I’ll get a thermometer asap.

Anything I can do about the infection? I’ve got gecko antibiotics with parasite killer in it given to me by my vet for my own AFT (he had a bit of problems earlier that were fixed), I’m sure that should be safe considering they’re the same species and the applicator syringes were cleaned after using them.

All of the cages at Zoology club are cleaned on a regular basis, so all of the dead creatures are always taken out.

Is the ’hiccuping’ thing part of the respiratory infection?
05/02/08  09:23pm

 #1723768


Smurfzilla
View Profile



   Message To: Sovereigngale   In reference to Message Id: 1723623


 Something seriously wrong??

yis.. they hiccup from the buildup.. the substrate switch and raised humidity MIGHT clear it up.. the higher humidity should make everything easier for the gecko to breathe easy.
05/03/08  02:00am

 #1728749


Sovereigngale
View Profile



   Message To: Smurfzilla   In reference to Message Id: 1723768


 Something seriously wrong??

Actually... Her nostrils are covered up. I’m not sure what it is, and Mr. Z (adviser of Zoology club) tried clearing it off, but it didn’t help much. Either she harmed her snout somehow, and the skin grew over, OR the skin stayed there from her last shed. I’m giving her antibiotics (stuff I was given for Neal, my AFT) just in case there’s bacteria.

She’s got some kind of reptile carpet (feels kinda like felt), and her terrarium is sprayed with water every day.

She seems to be thinner (not just on her tail), so hopefully once this mess has been cleared up, she’ll eat again.
05/07/08  10:04pm

 #1728918


AllHailRain
View Profile



   Message To: Sovereigngale   In reference to Message Id: 1728749


 Something seriously wrong??

If Neal’s leftovers don’t show obvious help in one week, she needs to go to the vet.
Why don’t you set out a jar for people to put their lunch change in and whatnot and get her to a vet?
If it’s skin from last shed, it would have come off easily.

Repti-aid is awesome for not-eating herps.

Get a thermometer/hygrometer. 7 bucks at walmart, get one in the house section..not sure exactly where, it was near the paint in my wally world. They work just the same as the 15 dollar fluker’s therm/hygros.
You’ll probably have to spray more than once a day to keep the humidity up once you can monitor it..
05/08/08  01:00am

 #1728944


Smurfzilla
View Profile



   Message To: AllHailRain   In reference to Message Id: 1728918


 Something seriously wrong??

if you can get a pic we could tell you if its stuck shed. chances if its not that then its discharge from a respiratory infection.
if its shed it should come off with a warm wet paper towel or qtip rubbed over it. RI stuff keeps crusting back over so you wont really get rid of it.
to keep up humidity give her a large shallow water bowl and place it in the warmer side of her tank, also cover half the tank lid with plastic to hold in the humidity. cover three sides of her tank with dark paper, dont handle her a lot, and make sure she has a warm area with a ground temp of 88-92 degrees. spray the tank liberally several times a day.. though using the carpet it may have to be done more often.. im good with twice a day using potting soil/cocofiber
05/08/08  02:24am


Back to Gecoks-Fat-Tailed Forum   Forums   Home   Members Area