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Crystel JackAsp Crystel JackAsp Crystel JackAsp NerdieMathGirl JackAsp Crystel NerdieMathGirl Crystel NerdieMathGirl JackAsp TiffRockz Crystel JackAsp Crystel JackAsp |
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Crystel View Profile |
Thinking about getting a hognose
I have an old 55 gallon breeder sitting around, so I’m not too worried about cage size, but I don’t really want a large snake. I’ve had a monitor lizard before, but this would be my first snake. I’m hoping to find something docile. Since the hognose is the snake I’m thinking would be the most fitting, I figured I’d start by posting here for input/advice. The info sites I’ve read so far, and the videos I’ve seen on youtube, just make me want one more. I’m guessing the western would be the best kind to start with? Once again, any input would be great. |
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| 07/09/09 12:54am |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2036505 Thinking about getting a hognose
I think 55s are better for small active snakes that climb (like corns or spotted pythons) than fossorial/terrestrials like hognoses. That 21 inches of height just goes to waste, and often makes them feel over-exposed when on the surface, so they just hide more. Then again, my hognose does great in a 40 breeder, which is only three inches shallower. I fill it almost halfway up with substrate, though, and keep a few sprawling-topped plastic plants in there to provide partial above-ground cover. |
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| 07/13/09 01:35am |
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Crystel View Profile |
Message To: JackAsp In reference to Message Id: 2038368 Thinking about getting a hognose
Do you think if I were to fill up the cage with enough rocks and decorative things, that I could use the 50? It’s a lot longer than it is tall, I don’t really have a ruler on me though : It looks to be about 12 inches tall. |
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| 07/13/09 03:45am |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2038384 Thinking about getting a hognose
And don’t feed them on it. If there is one species of snake that WILL manage to get that stuff in its mouth while eating, it’s hognoses. They chew and face-push their food a lot while eating, so either remove it and feed it elsewhere (have the food there first, so snake goes to food rather than food to snake, otherwise they can take being placed in the feeding container as a signal to get ready to grab food, and that’s how accidents happen) or else use somke kind of dinner plate/ margerine lid/ whatever to serve its food on. Rocks will deter you from cleaning the cage, make more of an obstacle course which makes the snake harder to find (it can be challenging enough in a big tank! if you start with a baby, I strongly suggest starting out in a smaller tank or tub just so you can properly monitor its behavior and health + make sure it gets fed on schedule) and they are also a tipping hazard. I keep a couple of bricks under the water dish, just so it’s high enough not to get buried, but besides that it’s all light, tunnelable fluffy stuff. I know her behavior patterns well enough that if I want to find her I can just poke my fingers straight down into the substrate and feel for her, and can usually giess exactly what section she’s in based on oom temperature and time of day. Then I just pet her a couple of times and she comes completely out to the surface, hoping to be fed. You could also try, but the keyword here is TRY, you might find it isn’t working well, doing what I do with my bullsnake and turn the 55 gallon sideways. Hinged screen top + clips = front door. On the one hand, it’s seven square feet instead of four, but on the other it’s only a foot deep, and you’re approaching from the front rather than swooping all the way down like a predator, so they might find the surface more secure than when the tank is standing up. And because there’s more floorspace, you can use much shallower substrate, which makes finding the snake easier for you. Only problems are: 1. The snake might rub the screen too much and get chafed. My bull doesn’t, but some bulls no doubt would, so would some hognoses, I’m sure. 2. You have to be extra certain you clip the cage shut every time. But it’s an option. You also might want to think about small climbing snakes, such as corns or spotted pythons. In my opinion, that’s the most satisfying use for a 55. if you do go with a hognose, watch out for low temp swings. Mine used to have trouble keeping straight which end was warm and which was cool, so for a little while I had to keep a mild heat sorce at each end, with the coolest area in the middle. Even though thye range very far north, when not hibernating they tend to spend the night asleep under large rocks that have stored up solar heat all day. When I first got mine I saw some care sheets that suggested night-time cooldowns, but all that ever did was make her throw up, so I started listening to the snake instead of to the advice that obviously wasn’t working. |
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| 07/13/09 10:16pm |
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Crystel View Profile |
Message To: JackAsp In reference to Message Id: 2038898 Thinking about getting a hognose
Although, I think was wrong on the size, hence my confusion with height. It was a gift to me years ago and I was told it was a 55 gallon breeder, but after looking at other tanks, it really looks more like a 30 gallon breeder. I’m guessing if I get a baby, it’d be good to start off with a smaller tank, but when the snake is full grown, would I be able to move to the 30 gallon or would that still be too big? I’m thinking I might get aspen, since it seems a lot of the images I’ve seen of hognoses have that in their cages. I’ll probably feed the snake in a separate container as well, and thanks for the tip of let the snake go to the food, it makes a lot of sense and I don’t know why I never really thought of it before. I might be ok regarding cold temperatures, I live in Orlando and it doesn’t really get cold here, but I am curious about how to set up the heating for the cage. I recall hearing horror stories of reptiles dying on heat rocks. I’ve also been reading about heating tape. What’s the best thing for a hognose setup? I also read about a cool down for hibernation somehwere, is it necessary to force your snake to hibernate? Thanks for all this advice! I’m really excited about all of this and hope to set up the best environment possible for the little guy. |
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| 07/14/09 07:14pm |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2039334 Thinking about getting a hognose
The easiest way to do the thermal gradient is to put a reptile heat pad under one corner. The floor size combined with at least four inches of substrate depth will take care of the thermal gradient, and the snake will maintain a system of tunnels through it all. Use a striplight to give a day/night cycle. Mine is amazingly light-conscious for an animal that’s usually buried. Sleeps all night long, comes right to the surface when the light clicks on, and has another egular period in the early afternojn hen she’s always out on top. The rest of the day she’s easy to coax out,but if I touch her at night she gets scared. Hiberantion is to prep them for breeding. Otherwise, if an animal is happy and eating all winter, that’s fine. The only species I actually breed are collared lizards, and I’ve never even hibernated them! Personally, I only brumate animals that are prone to severe winter depression. If something’s not going to eat anyway, then I’d rather cool it down and let it sleep more/ keep more weight on. I’ve had a fox snake like that and a carpet python like that. My hognose eats great, year-round. Sometimes in the late winter/early spring she’ll get a bit hesitant, but I found switching over to a UV light when that happens snaps her out of iut,even though they don’t physically require it for calcium synthesis the way certain other reptiles do. |
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| 07/16/09 11:31am |
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NerdieMathGirl View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2036505
I inquired to South Mountain Reptiles about the purchase of a Western Hognose snake. The gentleman who owns the business gave me some information about them. I was aware when I contacted him that the Western Hognose is rear-fanged venomous. However, most of the information on the Internet says that they don’t bite often or you would have to get your finger way down in the back of their mouth to be bitten. This man instructed me to look at a website that he gives to everyone before he sells them a Western Hognose. I am not telling you that you should not get one of these snakes, but rather I want you to be aware of what can happen with these snakes. Please take a look at this site. Additionally, I have a Pueblan Milk Snake that is not the most social of snakes. He has stopped scenting when I handle him, but I have to be careful because he can be sitting there calm as can be and then go bonkers and fly out of your hand. I would suggest a corn snake. I have a Blizzard and I just love him - he will slither onto my glasses and smell my face. He’s so cute! Good luck in your search for a new snake. Sincerely, NerdieMathGirl |
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| 07/20/09 08:01pm |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: NerdieMathGirl In reference to Message Id: 2042407 Thinking about getting a hognose
1. bit because it had learned to associate hands with food, and 2. was allowed to chew its venom in. It says he waited 3-5 minutes before running water on it. Most people can walk from their snake cage to their sink or bath tub in about 20 seconds. It’s a good link, and I too am tired of "experts" always claiming that the species has no venom. But I find it hard to believe that anyone who didn’t actually want to see what the venom was like though could manage to get enough chewed into them. Have you seen how much hognoses chew their food up? It’s not unusual at all for their prey to end up with its guts falling out. Just standing there and letting one chew on your finger has GOT to be uncomfortable! |
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| 07/21/09 12:15am |
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Crystel View Profile |
Message To: JackAsp In reference to Message Id: 2042524 Thinking about getting a hognose
At this point I’m pretty much set on getting a hognose. What can you do, stubborn reptile buyers. It just seems like the personality fits what I’m looking for more, and I really like the form of the snake, if that makes sense. I’m more comfortable with the size and girth of a full grown male hognose more than a full grown corn. And yeah, I’ll probably go with a male, even though I’ve heard they can be a bit more stubborn, I like the idea of the smaller sized hognose. Thank you JackAsp, your advice has been invaluable. Regardless of gender of the snake, I’d imagine it would be wise to start off with a smaller cage, right? Or does that not matter too much? I’m really looking forward to all this, the national breeder’s expo is only a month away now! :D |
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| 07/21/09 11:39am |
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NerdieMathGirl View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2036505 Thinking about getting a hognose
Just wanted to pass on some information. Good luck at the Expo and with whoever you decide to bring home. Have a great day everyone. Sincerely, NerdieMathGirl |
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| 07/21/09 01:26pm |
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Crystel View Profile |
Message To: NerdieMathGirl In reference to Message Id: 2042724 Thinking about getting a hognose
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| 07/21/09 01:40pm |
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NerdieMathGirl View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2042730 Thinking about getting a hognose
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| 07/21/09 01:46pm |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: NerdieMathGirl In reference to Message Id: 2042734 Thinking about getting a hognose
Meanwhile, please don’t be offended by this fact, but I’m giggling at the thought of a male hognose in that huge tank. I’m sure he’ll end up quite happy with it, but it’s just so the OPPOSITE of the usual "what size sweater box do I need for my green anaconda?" threads that most people post... I’m laughing with you, not at you. |
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| 07/21/09 07:50pm |
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TiffRockz View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2036505
Now, I don’t know too much on Sand boas, but I do know a few things. These snakes are quite docile and easy to care for. Their cage requirements are low too, so it makes them easy to clean up after. These snakes will only get a good 3-4 feet long. These snakes are pretty chill and easy going too. They make great pets for those who are new to caring for snakes. This snake, as well as the Hognose, are burrowers so they would need deep substrate. They may not be in their hides too often, and will mainly be burrowed in the substrate which will make them feel most secure. These snakes will rarely ever come out during the day time, so if you want a snake that would cruise around the enclosure this snake wouldn’t be for you. Mainly colubrids like to cruise around their enclosures during the day time, especially Milk snakes, King snakes, Corn snakes, Garter snakes, and Hognose snakes.. just to name a few. Boas, like pythons, are nocturnal and will come out during the night time. Again, a 55 gallon would be far too large for this species. And also, don’t forget to do your research. Trust me, doing your research with any animal will help you out greatly. I’ve learned this because I own 6 snakes right now, as well as a Giant Leopard gecko and a Red Eared slider. Milk snakes are pretty friendly and docile. They are very stunning and have such beautiful coloration. These snakes are also a bit jumpy, but will settle down once they’ve worn themselves out. If you don’t want a snake that’s jumpy and want one that’s more chill, I would say the Ball python is the best to go with. Milk snakes will get about 4-5 feet long, and they do make wonderful beginner snakes. For a full grown Milk snake, a 55 gallon enclosure would be perfect. It would give the snake a lot of space to roam around and explore it’s surroundings. These snakes are pretty commonly found at pet stores, but I would say the best way to go is purchasing from a breeder. Once more, please do your research. There’s a reason why I’m saying this a lot. It makes owning a snake much easier, and you would also know what to do. I know of another great site that has a ton of great people that are very experienced with all kinds of snakes. Go to ball-pythons.net, it’s a great site and you will get plently of helpful answers. Also on this site, there are caresheets so look up the care sheets for the snakes you want and narrow it down to the snake you want the most. |
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| 07/31/09 01:59am |
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Crystel View Profile |
Message To: TiffRockz In reference to Message Id: 2048465 Thinking about getting a hognose
As far as reading up goes, I’ve already done enough research that I’ve found myself giving advice/tips to people online who already own hognoses, so I’d say I’m being pretty thorough :) If you read the other posts you’d see that I’ve been asking questions here too. Ball pythons actually make me nervous, so even if they make great starter snakes, I wouldn’t say they’d make a good one for me. I’ve held a hognose, milksnake, kingsnake, and sand boa before and none of them bothered me. I don’t know what it is exactly, but something about their shape. I don’t know. I’m planning on making my purchase at the upcoming national breeders expo in daytona. So yeah, a breeder :) I haven’t been to ball-python.net, but i’ve been reading all the hognose posts on kingsnake.com. Thanks for the tip. And Jack, I’m not offended. I’ve actually seen posts of monitor lizards (adult) in 20 gallon tanks where the people thought that was ok, so I know what you’re talking about. I guess some more questions I have- I was wondering if the colored carefresh is honestly safe. I’m not like "I NEED COLORED SUBSTRATE", but I am curious. I know newspaper ink can be pretty bad so it makes me wonder. I’m also wondering what kind of things you would want in a hognose cage. Of course, water and a hide spot, but would you want logs for them to climb on or anything for them to rest upon or rub against? (I don’t know if they like doing those things) And does anyone know if you can buy cage supplies at the national breeders expo? I’m not sure if it would be better to get everything before I go or to get everything while I’m there. Thanks for all the help!!! |
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| 07/31/09 12:12pm |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2048644 Thinking about getting a hognose
Hognoses are less intimidating than ball pythons? But they put so much work into acting big and scary! The stuff you’re worried about is just food coloring. Add to that the fact that in a hognose tank it would be kept dry, and snake wouldn’t even be fed directly on the substrate, and it’s really nothing to worry about. I mostly buy undyed substrates because it’s cheaper, but I keep my bull out in the living room and have had no trouble with using blue Healthy Pet. It doesn’t even discolor the water when it gets into his bowl. Can’t remember if I mentioned that stuff earlier or not, but it’s what I switched over to from Carefresh. Same general substrate type (wood pulp) but Carefresh has more dust. I’ll still buy Carefresh if it’s all that’s on the shelf, but it’s no longer my actual favorite. Hognoses aren’t the best of snakes for cage props, since most of them aren’t climbers. More substrate will always be preferred to more furniture. If the substrate is deep enough, hides will probably not interest them as much as their own burrows. You can try a few and see how the snake responds, but avoid those half-logs. Feces is very difficult to clean off them. Since an adult will prefer substrate deeper than their water dish, you’ll want something solid under the dish, so you might multi-task by putting some kind of flat-topped hiding area down there. Also, I keep a small plastic storage tub, uncovered, with moist sphagnum in the tank. When she feels the need for higher humidity, it gives her a place to bury herself. In a baby-tank, you could use a second water dish for the moss and accomplish the same thing without wasting a lot of regular-space, or go higher tech and use something like a plastic filecard-box with a hole in it. The bottom holds the moss and top flips open for easy access. You might put the humid-spot under the water dish, but I prefer to have it closer to the warm end, so they don’t have to choose between moisture and warmth. Mostly, their preferred environment is all about having lots of dry substrate to build tunnels in. I keep some big-leaved plastic plants (the kind with the pointyish bottom, not the kind with a bulky base that would cost the snake digging-room) stuck in there just to make the cage a little more interesting to look at, and I suspect that she likes having the partial cover to lurk under, but she doesn’t go prop-crazy and climb everything in sight the way my Madagascan hog does. You can certainly get supplies at expos, that’s the main thing I get there, actually. But if you’re planning to get the snake there it’s better to have the cage already set up. That way as soon as you get him home, the substrate at the warm end will already be warm, the stuff at the cooler end will be cooler, and so forth. You might grab some little things like an interesting cave hide that you want to try out, but the stuff that the snake actually needs should already be in place. It’s a great place to load up on food. Ask the breeder what it’s eating and then go get a whole frozen bag dirt cheap, probably for like a penny a mouse. If it’s only eating live, let someone more experienced mess with it. A corn snake or something like that that doesn’t switch off live pinkies can grow up and kill adult mice and probably still be okay. A hognose can’t. Baby mice are too fatty and will shorten its adult lifespan. Adult mice can and will tear it up. To live well in captivity, western hogs need to be comfortable with prekilled rodents, so since it’s your first snake just make sure you don’t have to train a picky one. You should also ask what kind of substrate the snake is used to. Just in case there’s a feeding problem, giving the snake something that smells familiar to it could help. If you want to be extra-prepared, buy a bag of it while you’re at the show, just in case. You can even play the "better safe than sorry" game, although I admit it’s probaly unnecessary, by mixing some of the old type into the new type, as long as you’re careful to still leave the warm stuff at the warm end. |
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| 08/01/09 02:19am |
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Crystel View Profile |
Message To: JackAsp In reference to Message Id: 2049003 Thinking about getting a hognose
is there any way to delete posts you’ve made on this message board? |
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| 08/04/09 01:57am |
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JackAsp View Profile |
Message To: Crystel In reference to Message Id: 2050536 Thinking about getting a hognose
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| 08/05/09 01:32pm |
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Thinking about getting a hognose
Thinking about getting a hognose