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Horned Lizard caresheet
Technical Manual for Lizard, Horned. Genus Phrynosoma. Other species this care sheet may cover: Limited health related information from the Iguanidae Family applies also to Phrynosoma ( they are closely realted ), i.e. stress factors and skin blackening syndrome, infections & wound care, etc. Recommend Melissa Kaplan’s information on the Green Iguana in this regard. This care sheet covers only Phrynosoma ( Horned Lizards ). The Short Horned species ( hernandesi and douglassi ) are generally found at higher altitudes, are generally accepted to do the worst in captivity, and therefore, may require additional care information ( especially with regard to temp, humidity, and diet ). Not all information contained here is applicable to hernandesi or douglassi. This sheet is most applicable to the majority of the other 12 species; such as Texas ( cornutum ), Regal ( solare ), and Desert ( platyrhinos ). Sexing & Dimorphisms: Males generally have an easily identifiable row of yellowish femoral pores, running along the underside of each rear thigh, and hemipenal bulges at the base of the tail just rear of the vent ( underneath ). Additionally, just rear of the vent, there will be two larger "post anal" scales, noticeably larger than surrounding scales. Females will have no row of pores, and generally have thinner tails at the base ( no bulging ). Though some species have characteristically wider tails, and may be harder to differentiate without comparison. Females also are generally larger than males, although again, experience and comparison with previous examples will help, since age can be harder to determine. Substrate and Watering: Substrate: fine-grade sand, such as playbox sand ( available at Home Depot $3-$4 50lb. One bag is sufficient to fill a 40gal. aquarium ( the minimum size considered acceptable by most Horned Lizard keepers ). Sand should be a few inches deep, sufficient for the lizard to burrow for sleep, and for thermoregulation. Expensive sands, such as those containing calcium, and often sold at pet stores, is unnecessary. There is little benefit from them, and supplements are more effectively administered as a food dust. Clean substrate of scat ( waste ) daily. The best way to accomplish this is with a plastic spoon. Most Horned Lizards will not drink from a dish at all. The only use I have had for dishes, is as a basking pool. Horned Lizards usually drink by "rain harvesting". As water droplets fall on it’s back, water is carried to it’s mouth by numerous channels along it’s body through capillary action. You may notice the lizard "smacking" it’s mouth. This is how it drinks. The best way to offer water to a Horned Lizard, is by misting it’s back with a spray bottle, and the general area around the lizard. It may sometimes lap water off rocks and other items in it’s enclosure. Some Horned Lizards may also respond to a dropper, and an alternate method of offering water is to place a drop of water on it’s snout, right on the nostrils. The lizard will soon take the water in from it’s nostrils and drink. The lizard is able to close the opening to the trachea, at the bottom of it’s mouth. Most Horned Lizards are native to desert or semi-arid climates, therefore, they do not require constant water. Horned Lizards will generally accept water no more than once or twice a week. Individual characteristics will vary, but there are no confirmed reports of a Horned Lizard accepting water everyday. If the lizard does not wish to drink, it will probably scurry off. Ensure the water is close to room temp. Water straight from a faucet that is too cold, could be a shock to the lizard’s body temp. Lighting, UVB, and Housing: A secure outdoor enclosure is preferable to the lizard. If you can provide this, it is recommended. Provide areas where the lizard may bask in direct sunlight, and plenty of areas of shade for the lizard to retreat to during the day, and where the enclosure does not overheat. Remember, this lizard does not stay out in the sun all day. It retreats during mid-day to shade. If using outdoor setup, ensure that enclosure is secure but open to air and offers direct, unflitered sunlight ( No glass, plexi, etc. ). Most people use chicken wire for the tops and sides, to about a foot above ground. The lower sides of the enclosure can be covered with a finer mesh screen ( 1/4" ) to prevent escapes, and things such as snakes getting in. Fine screen will block much of the sun’s UV, hence the reason for chicken wire for the upper sides and top. If setting up in an aquarium, 40 gallon is generally the minimum acceptable for up to 2 lizards. DO NOT PLACE LIZARD IN AN AQUARUIM OUTDOORS-The heat retained by the glass will quickly overheat and kill the lizard, turning an 80 degree day into 120 degrees on the hot sand, inside glass. Lighting requirements for indoor setup: A basking lamp on one end for heat. A cooler spot on the opposite end to retreat from the heat. UVB is mandatory. Some people use cheaper flourescent UVB lamps which only radiate 2-3 Microwatts per cm2 @ 12"-AT BEST ( when new ). This is doing the lizard no good. Labelling of UV lamps in the pet trade is often misleading. IF THE LAMP YOU BUY DOES NOT SPECIFICALLY STATE THAT IT PRODUCES "UVB", THEN IT DOES NOT PRODUCE "UVB". The factor for determining the worth of a UVB lamp is not the % of UVB ( i.e. 10%UVB ). This means nothing. The factor you are looking for in a good lamp is microwatts of UVB per square centimeter ( cm2 ) at 1 ft. An average summer day in the southwest can see UVB in the 200+ microwatt range. It is generally accepted that 20 minutes exposure per day of such UVB is sufficient for the production of vitamin D3 in the lizard’s skin. This allows the lizard to metabolize properly the calcium it takes in. Without it, the lizard ( and many other UVB dependent reptiles ) may develop deformities and die. I would consider the minimal acceptable UVB lamp to produce 20+ microwatts per cm2 ( square centimeter ). Most heat and UVB requirements can be met by using Mercury vapor lamps. Most produce 50+ microwatts. They are more costly, but produce sufficient UVB and heat. Temps & Humidity: Actual climate preferences may vary, depending on where the Horned Lizard is native. However, most are from similar climates, and this information is within the acceptable range for most breeds. This lizard hibernates in late fall til late spring/early summer by burrowing in the sand or under rocks, etc. As with any hibernating reptile, proper fat reserves to live through hibernation is necessary. Temps: Day-Mid/High 90’s to low 100’s ( no more than 110’ ) on the basking side. Low 80’s to low 90’s on the cool side. I prefer to keep warm side temps within the 96’-105’ range. Night-Temps can fall to ambient, without need for night-time heat/light, so long as you do not live in a refrigerator. It should obviuosly not get to freezing, and I recommend keeping it above 40’. At prolonged low temps. the lizard will go into hibernation. If you should need to leave home for a few days, shutting down the lights/heat is a good way to lower the lizard’s metabolism, therefore he will sleep more and get by without food for a short time ( not recommended for more than a few days ). These lizards burrow in sand to thermoregulate and sleep. Often if it is particularly hot, they may burrow in a shaded area or under a cave hide. The mouth being held agape is a sign that this lizard is too hot. Remove it or provide a cooler environment right away. Humidity for these lizards is less important, and does not require a gauge or monitoring. The weekly or twice weekly misting with water of the lizard and his surroundings will provide adequate humidity. If you notice the lizard’s skin excessively dry, you may mist occasionally with a reptile skin conditioner spray. But only on occasion. Equipment: NO ELECTRIC POWERED HEAT ROCKS! You may add sand, rocks, caves, plants, etc. to taste. Offer shaded hiding spots that remain cool. Housing I Provided: Simple wire caged outdoor terrarium for summer sunning, and a 50 gallon indoor aquarium. Diet: Insectivorous: Main dietary component for most Horned Lizards is Harvester Ants ( Pogonomrymex ), making up 60%-90% of the diet ( depending on species ). The Regal HL ( solare ) is at the highest end of that scale, with the Desert HL ( platyrhinos ) a close second. Harvester Ants venom contains formic acid, which provides proper gastrointestinal pH levels. This acidity protects the lizard from GI tract illnesses and bacterial infections ( see papers by Richard Montanucci ). The Horned Lizard also receives hydration from the chemical breakdown of Harvester Ant venom in it’s stomach, which produces water as a by-product. Cool, huh? They may also accept small crickets, mealworms, and seem to really enjoy the occasional moth. If offering crickets, mealworms, etc. ensure they are the smallest size possible. Horned Lizards do not possess great jaw strength, and are accostomed to small prey, such as ants, that they lift by the tongue. Additionally, an insect too large for the lizard may create digestive problems and lead to impaction ( digestive system blockage ), that could kill the lizard. I have conducted a necropsy on a previous Horned Lizard of mine that died from other causes, and their intestines are indeed small in diameter. Crickets and mealworms contain a high amount of indigestible chitin and are high in fat content, which the Horned Lizard’s system is not suitably adapted for as a frequent meal. I have maintained a Texas ( cornutum ) on a diet high in crickets and mealworms for over 3 years. Though the cornutum is believed to utilize Harvester Ants at around 60% of it’s diet and makes use of many other insects in it’s diet. In Texas, this may be due to the decline in Harvester Ant colonies, as the imported fire ant pushes north and west. Other species of Horned Lizard may, and often do, refuse regular food items other than Harvester Ants. This is especially true with many horned lizard species from the desert southwest. When offering Harvester Ants, place only a few at a time in with the lizard. Too many and they may turn aggressive and attack the lizard. The Horned Lizard is believed to possess some immunity to the venom ( which can kill small rodents with a few dozen stings ), however it is apparent that they do feel some pain from the sting. Keep Harvester Ants hibernated in the refrigerator until ready for use. This will slow them down and make it easier for the lizard to eat. A healthy and properly fed Horned Lizard will defecate everyday or every other day at the latest. AVOID ALLOWING HORNED LIZARD TO EAT FIREFLIES/LIGHTNING BUGS. THEY ARE FATALLY TOXIC TO THESE AND MANY OTHER IGUANA OR IGUANAN-LIKE LIZARDS. Additionally, do not feed your Horned Lizard an insect you are not sure is safe for it. A good rule is to not give it anything that is not present in it’s native territory. For example; the ants you may be feeding it from outside in your lawn, probably don’t exist where this lizard came from, and may be toxic to it. Not all ants are the same and some actually contain alarm pheremones which are poisonous to the lizard. They also will not provide exactly what the Horned Lizard needs. So don’t be cheap and try to get out of buying Harvester Ants. You could kill the lizard that way. This lizard hibernates in late fall. As with any hibernating reptile, proper fat reserves to live through hibernation is necessary. Supplements: Reptivite or similar lizard supplement once a week is sufficient. Do not follow label instructions which advise vitamins at every, or every other feeding. This is too much. Excessive supplements can result in hypervitamosis. Alternately, a straight calcium dust and D3 supplement may be offered at the same time. If the lizard is getting sufficient UVB, there will be little need for D3 supplementation very often. THIS IS NOT AN ALTERNATIVE TO GIVING THE LIZARD PROPER UVB EXPOSURE! Supplements can be given with a few pinhead crickets once a week. The supplement dust seems to adhere best to crickets vs. other items. Avoid reptile vitamin sprays. They are a waste of money since the reptile cannot absorb vitamins through it’s skin. These sprays may also interfere with proper thermoregulation. Maintenance & General Notes: Requires some daily maintenance, and most importantly, specific detailed care knowledge is required. Scat should be removed promptly. Sand should be sifted through frequently to remove debris, etc., and should be changed every 1-3 months, depending. Horned Lizards frequently like to attempt to climb the walls when they are stressed. While doing so they often stand on their tails, which can damage the vertibrae and break their tail. Attempt to prevent this with a new lizard by covering the sides of the aquarium with printed landscape scenes. There is less chance the lizard will do this if he cannot see through the glass. Horned Lizards do not like to be handled, they merely tolerate it, but it is stressful for them. You may notice them orienting their horns on their head in such a way as to protect themselves when touched. Many people think it is cute to rub their heads and watch them close their eyes and duck the head. Like a dog enjoying a petting. But this is actually not the case. This is a defensive posture against a perceived predator. Horned Lizards also frequently puff themselves up by inflating their lungs when they are scared. They do this to make themselves harder for a predator to swallow. In addition, some species can and do squirt streams of blood from the blood vessels around their eyelids. This is another defense, though it is a more rare behavior displayed toward humans. Horned Lizards also stress out over frequent traffic, noises, or an audience to close to their enclosure, especially during feeding. Many will not eat if watched too closely. Avoid housing more than 2 lizards in an aquarium 40 gallons or smaller. A 40 gallon is usually best for 1, or a male/female pair*. Avoid housing a disproportionate number of males to females. Excessive males will harass and highly stress the females, possibly contributing to their death. 1 male for every 3 or more females in a large enclosure would be most appropriate. * If housing a male/female pair together, monitor closely the interaction. If the male is frequently chasing or otherwise harassing the female, or she seems inactive, stressed, or will not eat; remove her immediately to her own permanent seperate quarters. For the beginner, avoid housing Horned Lizards of different species together. While not all Horned Lizard species are particularly known for being territorially aggressive, some species, such as the solare ( Regal HL ) are known to conflict with cornutum ( Texas HL ). Incidents between males of different breeds may occur. Keeping different breds seperate, at least until they are deemed to be healthy and parasite free, will also lessen the chance migration of certain diseases between species. It is recommended to disinfect your hands and utensils before coming into contact with animals in seperate housing, especially those of different species. I prefer to use an anti-bacterial hand gel or soap. In the case of any minor wounds, contact lens grade saline mixed 50/50 with betadine, may be used for irrigation and wound disinfection. I also use an over the counter triple antibiotic cream every few days, after wound rinsing. In the case of lingering or deep wounds, the lizard may require an antibiotic shot, such as Baytril, from a reptile vet. Some words on this species ( Genus ): I have been studying/keeping these fascinating lizards for about 5 years. They are definitely not what I would recommend for a beginner. They can be difficult and fragile in captivity, especially wild caught Horned Lizards. Do not buy wild caught! Most people selling these lizards don’t have a clue about how to take care of them. So they usually come to you with diseases and parasites. Many die soon after you have paid your money. I have 15+ years of overall reptile experience, mostly before with box turtles, snakes ( including venomous ), and monitor lizards. Horned Lizards are the hardest reptiles to keep alive I have yet dealt with. Beginners need not apply in my opinion. There are 14 different recognized species in North America. Most of these are native to the southwestern US, though there are limited populations reported in the Carolinas and Florida, and some species can be found in the central plains from Oklahoma to the Dakotas and into the northwest and Canada. Though none of these species native to the US is federally protected as of yet, most of these species are protected in many of the states concerned. For example, of the three species native to Texas, two of those are state protected by law and cannot be legally kept without expensive permit. Some states protect all species within their borders, some protect only certain species deemed as state "threatened" or "rare", and a few states offer no protection. The legality depends on what the species is and what state you are in. It is strongly advised that anyone considering Horned Lizards, read as much as possible and become very proficient with the many care facts of this lizard before taking one on. I advocate this rule of thumb; If you can go onto a Horned Lizard forum and can answer most of the basic general species information and captive care related questions asked by others, then you may be ready for one. This is a reptile which is not very tolerant of a "learn as you go" curve. |
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| 06/28/06 09:31pm |
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Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 View Profile |
Message To: Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 In reference to Message Id: 856962 Horned Lizard caresheet
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| 07/27/06 11:12pm |
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Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 View Profile |
Message To: Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 In reference to Message Id: 909635 Horned Lizard caresheet
"Head Bobbing"- You may notice, particularly with a Horned Lizard fresh from the wild, or with more than one Horned Lizard, a quick up and down motion of the head. This head bobbing is a form of communication between HLs. It is observed sometimes during basking or other relaxed activity, but most often it is seen during feeding. And feeding on ants in particular from my observations. It is also frequently seen when a male sees a female, or another HL, newly introduced into his environment. The Horned Lizard is either looking for a reply to his bob, to see if other HL are there, or it is communicating directly to the other HL. Each species of HL has it’s own particular variation of the head bob. What this communication is exactly about is unclear. It may also be used to identify between species. But it also can be reasonably observed that a single HL bobbing it’s head generally means that it feels secure in it’s environment from my observations. My solare ( Regal ) male would frequently climb to the higest point on the rocks when he was first put into his new habitat. There he would raise himself up on his forelimbs to get his head up further, and he would bob his head. This behavior tends to reduce in frequency however, the longer that a single HL is in captivity. Perhaps it learns after a time that it is the only one in it’s environment and there will be no return communication. Though I don’t believe this necessarily means it is unhappy. The communication may also be used as a territorial signal for other HLs to go somewhere else. Especially during feeding. Although some observances of aggression toward different species have been recorded, HLs are not generally known to be aggressive to one another. My Regal male recently began to bob his head again, after I brought in 2 Texas HL females for temporary "catch and release" study. He did have two female Regal companions, but they died within a week of each other due to illness. So he has been alone since last year. His head bobbing had stopped last winter until I brought in these two HLs. To help keep my male healthy, I housed these two females seperately, placing only one in his habitat with him at a time for short observances. He immediately began bobbing his head very frequently and moved closer to the female. Eventually he laid down right next to her and licked her face a few times. He clearly enjoyed her company. But the other female, a juvenile, I have observed gets quite stressed when I remove the older one. She once seemed to be frantically running about the aquarium, looking around, and bobbing her head. I have observed that behavior once before, when my male lost his two companions. Given my experience with HLs I can say they aren’t known to cohabitate in the wild in a social "den" fashion, but it really looked as if she was looking for the other in desperation. The two female Texas HLs were found in the shadow of the same tree, and are likely to be related. The juvenile actually slowed down her head bobbing and went back to basking in a relaxed fashion after the other female was returned. So this calls into to question just how social they may really be in the wild. We don’t know enough about them in reality. "Tail Wagging"- This is sometimes observed when a HL is feeding on ants, but in my experience is most often observed when the HL is eating crickets, moths, mealworms or other less frequent prey. It is generally considered to be a sign that the HL is excited by the prey, and another healthy sign of how the HL feels in it’s environment. Tail wagging is seen just before the HL strikes for it’s prey, and may or may not be accompanied afterward by a bob of the head. |
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| 08/01/06 10:38pm |
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Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 View Profile |
Message To: Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 In reference to Message Id: 917962 Horned Lizard caresheet
Horned Lizards hibernate in the late fall to late spring/early summer in the wild, like many other reptiles. As a general rule, if you have not had experience hibernating reptiles before, or it is late in the year and you have recently aquired your HL; you should not hibernate them the first year. Wait until your second season with them. Especially if their weight or other health issues are in question. Many reptiles die in hibernation. In fact, after keeping all sorts of reptiles for many years now, I usually skip hibernation the first year with most of my new reptiles. I usually wait until the second year, unless I’m really sure that they are fresh enough from the wild that they will do OK. What I mean by that is that they have been out in the elements in the recent week or so, and have likely already prepared to hibernate themselves, and that keeping them from hibernation in a visible captive environment at this point might do them more harm than good. But that’s a call I make with many years experience. I never recommend the beginner to reptiles or HL’s, hibernate a wild caught HL you just bought recently. Most likely it hasn’t been in the wild for a month or more. Hibernation is not necessarily a mandatory event with a captive HL, however, by offering this natural cycle, your HL will feel more normal, and consequentially may live a longer and healthier life. When you think "hibernation", many people have images of a bear, sleeping away the winter in a cozy cave den. But hibernation is not a time of cozy sleep. During hibernation, many of the animals’ less vital systems are shut down. It is surviving on minimal life support to get it through the wintertime, where it could not survive due to weather conditions and lack of food. It awakens when survivable conditions return. In particular to Horned Lizards; harvester ants hibernate as well. So during the winter months, there are no ants or other insects for the lizard to eat. Think about it...how often do you see even a cricket out during the winter? There are many conditions that must be right in order for the animal to survive this dormant state and come out of it next year. Most important is fat reserves. During hibernation the HL survives by lowering it’s metabolism and burning it’s stored fat for food ( fuel ). The lizard must be of healthy weight and have sufficient fat reserves to last through this period. The experienced keeper will be able to tell at a glance whether the lizard has enough fat. The primary indicators of sufficient fat reserves are in the tail and the legs. To prepare the lizard to have enough fat reserves, you may have to increase frequency of feeding, or amount fed a couple of months before you plan to hibernate it. I also sometimes use more frequent treats of mealworms or crickets to help fatten up the lizard if it is needed. And these really should be used only as treats or supplemental food items. Primary daily food items for most of the 14 species of HLs should always be harvester ants. Care should be taken when feeding your HL crickets and mealworms. This can set up a fatal problem just before hibernation, one that could kill the lizard if you are not attentive. The same danger from feeding too many crickets and mealworms is present during normal months as well, but during hibernation, even more so. The dangers are from slower digestion of these insects vs. ants, and from impaction. Too many, or too large, insects that are slower to digest can create an intestinal blockage that will kill the HL. Also, you must insure that the HL’s digestive tract is clear before hibernation, as any remaining undigested food items in the HL’s system when it shuts down, will decompose and give the HL toxicosis, possibly killing it or making it very very ill. At least a week before you plan for the HL to burrow and hibernate, you must discontinue feeding and allow the HL to digest it’s last meal and dispose of it. You should be keeping track of it’s "going potty" more closely in the weeks leading into hibernation time, so that you can guage when it’s system is clear. If the HL is outdoors or in a room where it experiences conditions close to outside temperatures, you may notice it showing a reduced interest in eating as it gets colder. In these cases the HL usually takes care of this itself. It is still good to keep tabs though, as your HL is not completely in the wild, experiencing and doing all things it might be doing if it were in the wild. You have to look at keeping a HL in this respect; You are interferring with it’s natural wild state...conditions and habits in almost everything you do, no matter how inconsequencial it may seem. The next most important factor after fat reserves and clearing the digestive system, is hydration. Increase the amount of times you water your HL to 2 or 3 times a week in the weeks leading up to hibernation. Extra water in the HL’s system will also assist it in clearing the bowels. A dehydrated HL may wake from hibernation searching for water. The HL should also be treated for parasites with liquid Panacur ( aka Safe-Guard/aka fenbendazole ) at least a month before expected hibernation. The first dose should be followed 2 weeks later by a second, with the last 2 weeks used to give the HL time to pass any parasites. If you don’t know exactly how to do this, see a reptile vet. Start preparing for hibernation in this order: 1. Stock up on fat reserves ( months away ) 2. Treat for parasites ( 1 month away ) 3. Stock up on water ( 1 month/weeks away ) 4. Clear the system ( days/week away ) If you are hibernating your HL indoors, you can somewhat regulate the time frame of when it goes into hibernation. The way your regulate it is by temperature and lighting. As it nears the late fall, begin to reduce the amount of lighting and heat the HL gets during the day. If you normally leave the lights on for 12 hours a day, then start the next week with 11, and 10 the next. You don’t have to go all the way down to 1. Just keep it close to the daytime hours of sun that would normally be experienced that time of year. I say about 8-9 hours. There is likely more than 8 or 9 hours of actual daylight during the fall where your HL comes from, but I would take into account how much of that sunshine during the evening that would not actually fall on the lizard, due to trees, mountains, etc. You should also move the lights back in increments so that the temperatures are progressively lower during the day as well. I also like to rotate the lamps beam across the aquarium, like the sun traversing the sky. I usually shoot to put them into hibernation just before Thanksgiving, but sometimes the lizard knows best and will go under to hibernate when it feels the time is right. If you haven’t yet verified that the HL’s digestive system is clear, then wake it up again until it leaves scat again. For this reason you should always remove scat daily so that you can keep track of such things. Besides increasing cleanliness in it’s habitat, this helps to pinpoint health issues with the lizard if something goes wrong. If you leave it’s habitat dirty with waste, then when it has an impaction, hasn’t gone for a few days and is in immediate danger of dying...you won’t know about it if you can’t tell when it went last. As the HL’s internal clock gets synchronized with the reducing light and temperatures, it will sense winter coming. It’s metabolism will begin to lower and it may have reduced appetite. If it does not, then you may need to adjust lighting/temps, and offer less food to help reduce it’s metabolism further. You will need temperatures to get down consistently to the 60s or a little lower, normally, for hibernation to begin. I attempt to stay within the 50s during hibernation. Once hibernated, the lizard may stay down consistently until spring, or it may awaken a few times. In my experience, when hibernated indoors, they sometimes awaken a couple of times over the winter. Usually it’s due to a warm spell, but there are other reasons why they may wake. Among the most common are: 1. Rising temperatures may cause their metabolism to raise and wake them up, especially if their sand is not deep enough to insulate them from warm spells. Ensure that where ever you hibernate your HL, it will be fairly immune to warm spells, with an average temperature as consistent as you can get it. Also ensure that it will not become cold enough to freeze. If the lizard is not protected by enough substrate ( from the top and from the bottom of the aquarium ) then it may freeze to death. 2. They may be dehydrated and searching for water. Offer water and see if it drinks and goes back to sleep soon. Water is ok to give. 3. They may be sick or have insufficient fat reserves. It is hard to tell sometimes if a groggy HL coming out of hibernation, with a low metabolism is actually sick or not. If there is any question about it being ill, then warm it back up slowly and check it’s reactions and activity. If it seems well and alert after warming for part of the day, then allow it to cool again and return to hibernation. If there is any question that it might not have enough fat, or it still appears to have something wrong with it; then discontinue hibernation and slowly return it’s habitat to warmer temperatures. Do not give the lizard food while it is awake, if you plan to return it to hibernation. If you do, then you must wait a couple of days again until you are sure it’s system is clear. But keep in mind that the longer it remains awake, the faster it is burning calories and fat. Either put it back into hibernation within a couple of days, or abort hibernation. If the lizard is waking excessively during the winter, then abort hibernation. I tend to prefer my reptiles to awaken at least once, so I can check on them. But you may also have a HL which is sleeping soundly...so much so that you worry that it is still alive. It is not uncommon to have a HL go most or all of the winter without seeing it. This is usually a good sign if it was healthy, had enough fat built up, and was hydrated. But sometimes I get the urge to check on them anyway. The best way to do this is to scrape back a little sand from around it, and rub it’s head, it’s fringe scales on it’s side, or lightly squeeze the base of it’s tail. Usually it will respond with a slight movement while staying asleep. As spring comes and temperatures begin to get warmer during the day, the HL will probably wake on it’s own. You may find him/her sitting on it’s favorite basking spot one morning waiting for sunshine. If by late March / early April your HL has not awakened yet, or the HL is "up" and "down" as we say, then begin to cycle your lights and temperatures back up, in reverse order from how you did in the fall, to simulate approaching summer. You don’t have to take a month getting the lights back to 10-12 hours a day and the temps into the 90-100s, but it doesn’t hurt if you can. You don’t want the HL to go from hibernation to summer basking temps by the next day, know what I mean? Anything you can do to reduce shock/stress and make things more "in the wild" normal for the HL will likely help it live longer. Proper temperatures are also important to get the metabolism back in order and encourage appetite, and for proper digestion. A reptile needs warm temperatures for all it’s organs to operate properly and digest it’s food. Once your HL wakes from hibernation and gets warmed up a little it is likely to be thirsty first. Give it plenty of water. This will help get it’s organs back to running normally, by flushing any waste and preparing the digestive system for food. It’s probably not going to want to eat a big meal with a dry whistle and bowels. This could also cause an impaction. After it gets some water for a day or so, then offer it some harvester ants. This is small prey and the breakdown of the venom will help further hydrate it. On occasion, a HL will not seem to be hungry after being awake a week or more. If this happens, ensure that your temperatures are correct, and that you are giving it sufficient UVA/B exposure. A lack of either of these can cause loss of appetite. If the problem persists, try another food item to get it’s interest. 2 springs ago I had a HL which would not eat. He didn’t want ants or the leftover mealworms I had in the fridge. So I got him some pinheads, and after force feeding him a couple, he bagan to eat on his own. ( Force feeding is something that is sometimes required with reptiles. Beginners should take care especially with HLs, as their jaws are delicate and can be broken by the wrong application of force to open them. A thin strip of plastic should be used to assist in parting the jaws. Some species are more difficult than others. Solare are relatively easy, but it is very hard to open the mouth of a cornutum. They have stronger jaws. In any case. If you have not done this before, it is best to get the assistance of someone with such HL or reptile experience. ) After the HL has been awake for a few weeks and is back to normal, eating good and basking plenty, it should be treated again for parasites in two doses / 2 weeks apart. 1. Warm up 2. Re-hydrate 3. Offer small prey 4. Treat for parasites By following these instructions you should have a good chance of success with hibernating your HL or other reptiles. |
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| 08/05/06 07:18pm |
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Wildmanwade View Profile |
Message To: Phrynosoma_Texas_FS3 In reference to Message Id: 924934 Horned Lizard caresheet
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| 08/05/06 09:26pm |
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Wildmanwade View Profile |
Message To: Wildmanwade In reference to Message Id: 925130 Horned Lizard caresheet
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| 08/05/06 10:27pm |
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Wildmanwade View Profile |
Message To: Wildmanwade In reference to Message Id: 925130 Horned Lizard caresheet
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| 08/05/06 10:27pm |
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Wildmanwade View Profile |
Message To: Wildmanwade In reference to Message Id: 925130 Horned Lizard caresheet
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| 08/05/06 10:27pm |
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Nomaddan View Profile |
Message To: Wildmanwade In reference to Message Id: 925227 Horned Lizard caresheet
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| 09/13/06 10:23pm |
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Nomaddan View Profile |
Message To: Wildmanwade In reference to Message Id: 925227
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| 09/13/06 10:24pm |
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