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Member	Message
#2253319 Daryl- View Profile	Usual reaction? Hey, Am wanting to start to give my Argus a but more thrill into her life, so, I was hoping letting him have a stroll in the reptile room for 10 minutes every now and then may do the trick. I’ve been using Marks videos for inspiration (getting her to climb onto me etc) but want to take it to the next level and get her out the cage. Only question is, what is their usual reaction to this thing? I realise they are all have different characteristics, but I am curious if she will be entirely focused in the food, get aggressive or try to hide? Just want to see roughly what I am getting myself into. If anyone can’t remember, she is around 4ft now, so I’m not sure if this changes anything. Appreciate your time -Daryl
01/30/12  11:59am
#2253324 Krusty View Profile	Message To: Daryl-   In reference to Message Id: 2253319  Usual reaction? "She" is a "he" first off if 48" and growing, not that it matters much. Try it in a room the cage is in where you open the door and let him come out on his own terms. He will likely hiss and stand up if you grab at him but Argus are special in that they get over grudges and violations of their perceived safety really quickly. Lol. Have fun w them and don’t let them get loose outside.
01/30/12  12:15pm
#2253328 Daryl- View Profile	Message To: Krusty   In reference to Message Id: 2253324  Usual reaction? She is around 3 years old now and is just under the 4ft mark (3.5 ft). I said that purely to get across she is not a juvenile. Steve (stephenfoo) gave her to me, and he was sure ’she’ was a ’she’ to the point he was going to mate her. Plus, I’m sure she goes through the ’cycles’! But thanks for the tips, I was always just going to lure her out with food and allow her to go back when she wants, I would not grab her... That would not end well in my behalf! But like I said, i appreciate the advice -Daryl
01/30/12  12:38pm
#2253339 Krusty View Profile	Message To: Daryl-   In reference to Message Id: 2253328  Usual reaction? Oh wait, Stephen is in the UK and his male breeder is likely a V.p.panoptes - the largest subspecies. All the USA animals are V.p. horni and the smallest type. Those females never exceed 40" I’ve ever seen in 8 years keeping and breeding them. Pics of yours to post? Always curious to see.....
01/30/12  01:59pm
#2253374 Daryl- View Profile	Message To: Krusty   In reference to Message Id: 2253339  Usual reaction? These are pretty old pictures, I will try and get some updated ones soon! -Daryl
01/30/12  04:23pm
#2253475 Mdf View Profile	Message To: Daryl-   In reference to Message Id: 2253374  Usual reaction? Daryl i always had trap doors/doors at floor level so you could lead them out stage by stage, a little bit further each time. Typical monitor would focus on the food & be fearless whilst following the food out their comfort zone, as soon as the food had gone & they realised they were in new territory that’s were the problems start. You may once again look scary to them or someone shuts a door & they make a bolt for it, that’s why i always led them back in a circle facing the door so if they bolted they headed for their front door. If you freak them out depending on the monitor species etc it could take weeks to get them settled again, if yours is raised you could use a ramp with sides one like cattle trucks to guide them back in. Yours been so big & the power house argus monitor then it should go smoothly, just the female thing might hold you back a bit, not sure how shy they are compared to a 4 foot b/t or Nile, also watch that feeding response they have, don’t want finger wounds pics posting next week lol! :) good luck! :)
01/31/12  02:33pm
#2253544 Krusty View Profile	Message To: Mdf   In reference to Message Id: 2253475  Usual reaction? Looks like an enormous female I think, but the views kinda "suck" (no offense LOL) except the log pic. Just a shot from above of "her" on the ground would suffice - all of "her" if the opportunity comes up.
01/31/12  11:27pm
#2253579 Daryl- View Profile	Message To: Krusty   In reference to Message Id: 2253544  Usual reaction? Mark, thanks for the tips! The feeding response is what I have to watch out for, it’s seriously crazy! I was planning on using a ramp, drag her out with food, then drag her back in with food... This way she wont fully take in that she is out of her cage. Over time I will hopefully draw out the time between induvidual mice and ’ween’ her into coming out. Justin, sorry, I didn’t realise I was posting pics for sexing, I just thought you wanted to have a look! So for that, yes, they do suck! I’ll get back to you with some head pics, tail base and proper photos! Cheers -Daryl
02/01/12  12:31pm
#2253704 Mdf View Profile	Message To: Daryl-   In reference to Message Id: 2253579  Usual reaction? from what i remember i’d start with small circles & build up to large circles, then eventually they’d come out their own, i always had plenty of mice just in case they went into fright & flight mode, wave a mouse in front of them & most snap back into hunt mode! :) upto date photo’s would be nice! :)
02/02/12  02:30pm
#2253721 Rpeteroy View Profile	Message To: Mdf   In reference to Message Id: 2253704  Usual reaction? Personally I would leave food out of the equation. By leading the animal out with food will teach it to associate both food and coming out together. During feeding I try to always use a my tongs to tap on the glass which when they dont hear that sound there is much less of a feeding response(except yesterday a female flavi jumped out at my finger and got me real good). By making the animal understand there is a difference between the times you feed and handle makes it safer for you and the animal. This is an excellent method for these animals especially ones as aggressive as argus. Now I know that argus feeding response is extremely strong compared to most feeding responses but they will eventually understand. My glass clicking allows me to call them out to feed and even some of my meanest snakes have learned when there is no tapping there is no food, but tap that glass and look out my building starts to shake as all 40 monitors come a running to get that food. Its actually kind of funny that in 1 second there will be a bunch of empty cages but then as soon as I start tapping they are all climbing my glass doors with mouths agape.
02/02/12  04:01pm
#2253751 Krusty View Profile	Message To: Rpeteroy   In reference to Message Id: 2253721  Usual reaction? I’ve kept Argus since 2003 - bit on toe by a flip-flop mistake moving quickly once. Sneakers/shoes ever since then and knew my mistake right away. Man, did that hurt prying him off with a stick. I’ve kept Flavirufus since 2008 - been nailed 5 times feeding. Never enough to need stitches and glance bites, but bled for a couple hours. I think it’s funny some people (AZ guy) downplay the feed response of Flavi’s like it’s any less than an Argus. They’re both insane feeders who eat a ton. Flavi’s are actually stealthier as they explode from burrows onto your digits. :) You damn well know when an Argus is coming at you - no stealth...just "look out".
02/02/12  08:14pm
#2253823 Mdf View Profile	Message To: Rpeteroy   In reference to Message Id: 2253721  Usual reaction? I’ve used bells/squeaks/ whistles & tapping but all of this depends on the monitor in question & how far along the trust building process you are, monitors aren’t daft they soon figure out the end of the long tongs hold the food not the human fingers. Most keepers that keep this species understand the power behind the feeding response & act accordantly safety wise, if we the keeper get bit we all know it’s our fault & we took our eye off the ball! My nile finds noises & movement from me offensive even after 6 months & nearly 2 years old, in this case the only time you’d ever get her out is with food or by grabbing her, why would she want to leave the place that meets 99% of her requirements. Her signal for feeding is a light spray of water, she’ll head out to see what’s going for this, door closed & i can drill hammer & whatever i want, door open different story. All i’m saying is you can’t start tapping on the glass & expect all young monitors to pick up the meaning of the tap, you have to associate the tap with food over a period of time, if you monitor is bold it will do it’s best to get out , in that case food will not be needed assuming the monitor will allow you to pick it up & put it back in it’s cage. If you can’t pick it up you have a problem that can easily be cured leading the monitor back into the cage with food rather than force handling, i trained one of my savs to feed through the right door only, left door was cleaning tasks & water change. now the big question do you want animals that carry out natural behaviour around you, or animals that switch on & off according to a tap, if you stand still keep you fingers out the way, don’t wave your hands around it’s very unlikely you’ll get bit. I’ve watched many a hunt around my loft & for me personally that’s how i like it :) As for training up your arm this has to be carried out at an early age so by the time their a danger size wise they’ve learnt to sit on your arm for food, a bigger monitor at optimum temps would be a real danger, but if you understand the process & take it very slow it can still be done with a large monitor. understand your monitor & understand it’s feeding response & it’s goal in life & you won’t go far wrong, alot also depends of the habitat as in regards size & suitability , monitors kept in smaller cages tame quicker ( gain trust quicker). I gambled that putting an 18" monitor a 8x4x6h that i’d have her somewhere near accustomed to me by the time she reached the challenging size, with some luck i meant my goal! I have very little interaction with the monitors over the period of time it takes to so call tame them, they understand i bring food & realise i won’t hurt them, they go near my hand & get a positive experience ( food) they go away remember the positive experience so next time it’s easier for them perform the said task & so on eventually sit on my arm. It’s easy just some take more time than others , the key is let the monitor be a monitor & safely adapt yourself round the monitor. :)
02/03/12  01:15pm
#2253942 Shaneluvsmonitors View Profile	Message To: Mdf   In reference to Message Id: 2253823  Usual reaction? What worked for me with my argus is leaving the viv open... and waiting for them to become naturaly inquisitive my male happily wanders out and around me the girl will come right up to the opening and poke her head out shes raised up so cant get out of her own accord yet.
02/04/12  02:27pm
#2253996 Mdf View Profile	Message To: Shaneluvsmonitors   In reference to Message Id: 2253942  Usual reaction? I suppose it comes down to where your monitors are kept & how timid they are or not! But i would of thought Daryl should be able to do what you do Shane. :)
02/05/12  12:12pm
#2254021 Daryl- View Profile	Message To: Mdf   In reference to Message Id: 2253996  Usual reaction? Thanks for all of the tips guys, it nice to have a collection of possible outcomes and suggestions on what I could use! Regarding where I am at at the moment, I am fairly early days, just making her come on my arm to get food and sticking my hand in there every now and then just for her to get used to me. There has been the odd few occasions where she has nearly nipped my hand, but luckily, I was aware and pulled my hand away... She has never been aggressive, just hungry! As soon as I get my tongs out, she jumps down from her basking log and starts scratching at the window to try and get to them, so like you said with the tapping, mine also recognises signals, so I’m hoping this will mean she will be willing to come out easier. I’ll hopefully post some some pictures soon, just been pretty busy recently. I shall keep you all updated. Thanks again, -Daryl
02/05/12  03:43pm

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