Build an Incubator
Incubators have been around since the beginning of time. Really, they are called maternal incubators! Pythons maternally incubate their eggs and in some cases actually elevate their body temperature above the surrounding temperatures of their environment. In captivity it is best to remove the eggs from the mother and artificially incubate them. When you do this, you have to factor several things at once for success: 1) Temperature, 2) Humidity, 3) Airflow, and 4) Protection.

Temperature is straight forward with a good proportional thermostat. There are many on the market, but my favorites are the Helix DBS-1000 and the Spyder Robotics line of thermostats. For most python species, the appropriate incubation temperature ranges from 89-92F though higher or lower temperatures still CAN be successful, mortality increases dramatically.

Humidity is another key factor and too little can also increase mortality with pythons. In general, you want 100% humidity with fresh air exchange to avoid mold growth and stale air. An open container of water in the incubator combined with the appropriately hydrated incubation medium is the key to success. Perlite and vermiculite are the best in my opinion though other media including no media have also been used with some success. I prefer to use course vermiculite purchased from shipping or botanical supply houses and mixed with just enough water (usually 1 for 1 by weight) to make the vermiculite clump together when squeezed.

Airflow is critical in the incubation process since oxygen is needed for the eggs as the embryos develop. Generally opening the incubator and exposing the eggs to fresh air at least once a week during the incubation process is generally sufficient depending on the volume of air in your container/incubator. You may have to do this more frequently especially later in the inbubation process when more heat is created by the eggs and they demand more oxygen.

Protection is critical since the eggs are relatively fragile though a few keepers have dropped the eggs when removing them from the mother with no harm to the eggs. Even I have to admit to doing this once and even though I was mortified with my slip, the egg hatched successfully and the animal developed normally. Obviously Humpty Dumpty wasn’t from a python! Some keepers try to pip the eggs or slit the egg shell to peek at the offspring. I don’t recommend this unless you have been shown how. However, it is very exciting to see a peek at the morph or species you are hatching. Click here to see what it looks like under "the hood" of the egg when a egg is successfully pipped.

Yet I’m putting the perlite under the grating and the eggs on top? and going to use a UTH in a cooler, Is the drain hole going to be enough ventilation or should a add one more hole?

well all the ones that don’t look bad there are 4 bad looking eggs (slugs), one of witch is stuck to a good egg is this going to be ok?

Wow I can’t get that on such short notice. I have something for my blood’s UTH, all it has is a Dial and settings for high to low, and seems to work good for that, keeps the temps good, Would it be ok to use one of thous? Allso how would the saran wrap work if I don’t use a tub?