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#1425393 RzrbkAces
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Leucistic Rat Snake  Hi! I have a female Leucistic Rat Snake that I "adopted" from a friend. I was not informed by him that she wasn’t exactly the most sociable snake and I would love one that is. She nips when I try to play with her or when she feels my touch she flails herself to get away. I don’t want her to hurt herself, but I’m beginning to lose hope that I might be able to calm her down. She’s about 9 months old and 2 1/2 feet long (approx). Does anyone have any recommendations or should I just try and trade her for a younger one?
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08/30/07 10:00am
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#1426202 Lilnicky_074
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Message To: RzrbkAces In reference to Message Id: 1425393
Leucistic Rat Snake  i have one to but mines cool they start mean tho u need handle them every day let them get use to u
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08/30/07 09:20pm
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#1427803 JackAsp
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Message To: Lilnicky_074 In reference to Message Id: 1426202
Leucistic Rat Snake  Ten second rule. The longer it takes you to pick up a defensive animal, the more time they have to get riled up. You should, without rushing, be able to get the snake out of her cage in ten seconds or less. If she’s in a tank, that includes dealing with the screen, clamps, weights, light, whatever you’ve got. A lot of people start right out with beautiful terraruims full of plastic plants to hide in, and that’s fine either if the snake is tame or if you’re not trying to handle them much, but if you have to move things around for thirty seconds and/or chase the snake through an obstacle course then you’e making a much stronger impression of how scary you are than you want to. I’m not saying don’t provide any branches or anything, but it has to be postioned for smooth access. You want hide boxes that lift off, not that you have to drag the snake out of. You don’t want to have to move a whole bunch of branches in and out just to get accfess to the cage floor. In fact, the ten second rule should apply to taking out the water dish, too. Make your hands in the cage as short and therefore minimal an intrusion as possible.
Start out by holding her, not playing with her. Encouraging a tame snake to explore is fun, but with a nervous one all your doing is putting her flight instinct into high gear. Try to get her to hold onto your hand (it usually works better if you hold your hand high up) and just stay in one place. Let her be comfortable in one spot. Later, when she’s used to that, you can incorporate motion into these sessions.
If she’s willing, feeding outside the cage is a great bonding experience too. It’s the most consistant way I know of to actually make a snake want to come out and see you, rather than just making the best of it once they’re removed from where they were hiding. Just do not put the snake in a feeding container and then bring food. That encourages feeding accidents. Put the food there first, then wash your hands, then bring the snake. If she wants the mouse, she’ll get it. The when she’s done, put her back immediately, with no play session for two days. Snakes that learn that hands are what takes them to where the mice are a lot more willing to pop out and visit as soon as you open their cage. A lot of people worry about regurges, but a snake that’s that seriously bothered isn’t going to eat that way in the first place. In which case don’t force the issue by holding out. Just keep feeding her in the cage.
I’ve also heard it suggested that you give them a T-shirt you’ve worn a few days to hide in. Never tried that one, but a lot of people swear by that trick. Can’t hurt to try.
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09/01/07 02:35am
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#1538377 Natloop
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Message To: RzrbkAces In reference to Message Id: 1425393
Leucistic Rat Snake  try wearing gloves at first to tame her and touch her head alot untill she knows u aren’t going to hurt her.
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12/07/07 12:19am
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#1540813 LeucisticTy
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Message To: Natloop In reference to Message Id: 1538377
Leucistic Rat Snake  Natloop I totally disagree with your idea, wearing a pair of gloves while handling your snake and trying to touch his or her head with a gloved hand is a bad idea, for one you won’t be able to tell how much force your touching your snake with (I know it sounds silly but a snake is only so big and gloves prevent you from controling the force with which you touch your snake) and one thing you never want to do when taming a snake is trying to touch their head, thats their most sensitive part of their body and it takes a long time to build up enough trust to allow your snake to be cool about that, i’ve had my lucy for almost a year now and she’s never bitten me or tried to but she still won’t let me touch her head readily, if the snake doesn’t want to be touched at all the worst thing you can do is try and touch the snakes most sensitive parts, especially with a gloved hand, you might make him or her alot more angry by doing so, thus negating all your efforts to calm it down
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12/09/07 03:03pm
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#1541298 Wisema2297
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Message To: LeucisticTy In reference to Message Id: 1540813
Leucistic Rat Snake  Never reach for a scared snakes head!! This is an ultimate predator move. Just calmly reach in and grab mid body ignoring any bites or strikes. Only 9 months old......she couldn’t draw blood if she chewed on you...LOL. The only way to get her calmed down so you can hadle her is to handle her....The less you handle her the more nippy she remains. Just pick her up every other day and hold for 5-10 minutes. If she bites you, just ignore it, she will stop.
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12/09/07 08:48pm
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